The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
History
The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"
Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
Alert (Sloop : 1856-1895); Arctic regions; Nares, George S. (George Strong), 1831-1915
The crow's-nest was never deserted. In it Captain Nares might almost be
said to live, rarely coming on deck even for his meals; as for a night's
rest, such a thing to him was quite unknown. From the "nest" the motions
of the ice were closely scrutinized, the tides and currents were
studied, and the influence of the wind on the pack ascertained. No
opportunity was ever lost, and it was entirely due to this unceasing
watchfulness that the expedition succeeded in advancing, although it was
only inch by inch.
Victoria Head was reached on the morning of the 8th of August, but at
the expense of damaged rudder-heads to both ships, caused by the
constant backing into the ice whilst engaged in charging and breaking
through slight streams that offered impediments to our advance. A
detention here enabled us to pay the shore a visit. Great difficulty was
experienced in landing on account of the ice-foot adhering to the land,
which resembled a perpendicular frozen wall rising to the height of
about twelve feet. Indeed it was more overhanging than perpendicular, as
the action of the water had considerably undermined its base and
therefore rendered it almost inaccessible. By the aid of a long
boat-hook staff and some rope we succeeded in clambering up, at the
expense of bruised hands, the jagged surface of the ice cutting like
penknives. This proceeding was not unattended by a certain amount of
danger, for had the ice given way we should have been precipitated into
the boat, in which case we should have been extremely lucky to have
escaped without a fractured bone or limb.
The loose and rugged slabs of slaty limestone of which the hills were
composed made the walking very arduous, added to which a thick fog and
snowstorm that overtook us rendered our climb unprofitable so far as
ascertaining the nature of the ice to seaward and the prospect of
pushing on were concerned. The steep cliffs surrounding this prominent
headland are wasted and worn by the combined effects of snow and
weather, and present the same "battlemented" appearance so common to the
Silurian limestone formation of the cliffs about Prince Regent Inlet and
Lancaster Sound. A few fossils were collected, but, with the exception
of some sprigs of the stunted willow and a single tuft of saxifrage,
the land was devoid of all vegetation. Deep ravines stretched away into
the interior, entirely free from both snow and ice. Traces of former
inhabitants were discovered along the beach, consisting of the site of
an Eskimo settlement and a few small cairns or fox-traps.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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