Victoria Station is every morning the scene of a daily romance--the
departure of the Continental boat expresses. When the fog comes and
the rain and the driving sleet, and every Londoner loathes London
just a little, I can extract a certain pale kind of pleasure by
buying a penny platform ticket and watching other people start off to
the snow or the sun.
I can never decide whether the act of extracting enjoyment from other
people's luck is the lowest or the highest form of fun. There is
always a sting in the tail of it.
* * *
When you love travel, and have lost count of the number of times the
chocolate-coloured Pullmans have whirled you through Kent to the edge
of the sea and on to far places, this morning assembly of travellers
shakes you to the heart. You know what is in store for them. You
follow them down to Dover; you see them in the swift Channel boat;
you hear the blue-bloused porters of Calais crying "Soixante-dix,
m'sieu. I meet you at ze douane!" You visualize the idiotic fight
in the French Customs; you see the long Paris Rapide waiting with
steam up, the wrinkled old Frenchwomen in white caps and knitted
black shawls who sell fruit, and you hear the funny little penny
whistle like a child's trumpet that sends this great train racketing
and thundering through France, or Basle and Switzerland, or
Marseilles, and then--oh, marvellous far places in Africa!
Which is more wonderful? To awaken at the Swiss frontier with snow
muffling a cotton-wool world of chasms and peaks, or to awaken in the
sunlight of Southern France to a glimpse of the blue Mediterranean?
* * *
That wide, hedgeless plain with its silver-grey olive trees, its
red-roofed houses, and its vignettes of rustic activity; little men
in fields walking behind the plough, at stable doors bringing out a
solemn, ragged mule, give me that. And give me, too, the
ever-recurring joy of the uncomfortable swinging French _wagon
restaurant_ full of various people: Englishmen who look so comically
English as soon as they cross the Channel, Frenchmen whose black
spade beards cascade over white table-napkins which they tuck into
their collars before they devour their food with Gallic avidity, and
the good-looking Parisienne with her carmine mouth and her finicky,
much-manicured hands breaking bread and salting meat while her big,
emotional eyes sweep over and beyond the bald heads of appraising
British husbands.
"Liqueur, m'sieu?"
The man with the tray of little bright bottles staggers up and,
notable sight, the elderly virgin of some distant vicarage sips an
unusual brandy. Marvellous France!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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