The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Garters when visible on men's legs become very ornamental, and one in
use now, merely as a decoration, gave its name to the celebrated Order
of Knighthood, among the insignia of which it is still to be found.
At the present day garters are hidden, and there is a tendency for
them to be replaced by more comfortable straps or "suspenders," but
those which ladies wear still retain their gaudy character. In this
connection an interesting ceremony may be mentioned, which is carried
in Haute-Vienne on the day of St. Eutropius. All the girls of the
neighbourhood troop to the church dedicated to the saint at St.
Junien-les-Gombes, and each damsel hangs her left garter on the cross
hard by, which becomes so smothered with garters of different colours
that when seen from a short distance it looks as if it were covered
with flowers.
VIII
PETTICOATS AND TROUSERS
THE BELTED PLAID AND KILT--EARLY SKIRTS--THE ANTIQUITY OF
TROUSERS--TROUSER STRIPES
We were at some pains to trace the evolution of the coat from the shawl,
and it is possible also to show that the petticoat, and through this
even trousers, have equal claims to the same ancestry.
The plaid as we saw it in Chapter III is only a shawl, and at one time
in Scotland it was used as a covering for practically the whole of the
person. It was ingeniously disposed, and part of it was fastened by a
belt round the waist so as to form a kind of kilt or petticoat. Hence
arose the name of belted plaid. It seems to have needed a considerable
amount of practice to put on this garment properly, and the method
customarily adopted by the wearer was to spread the plaid on the ground
and, after duly arranging it in its proper folds, to lie down upon it
and fix it with the belt. Some races seem to have recognized very much
earlier that it would be more convenient to separate the kilt from the
upper garment. In fact, if we examine the woven garments which the
Danish chieftain wore under his deer-skin cloak, at a time before the
use of iron had spread to Western Europe, we find that round his loins
he had a small shawl held in place by a girdle. (See Figure 75.)
[Illustration: FIG. 75.--A shawl used as a kilt by a chieftain of
Denmark in the bronze stage of culture (after Worsaae).]
The next stage in the evolution of the petticoat would be characterized
by the permanent joining of the edges of the cloth, so that a garment
would be formed which resembled the lower part of the tubular tunic
which played its part in the evolution of the shirt or coat. Such a
state of affairs is to be seen in the simple skirt of the Danish
chieftainess whose bodice we have already described. (See page 18.)
Here the petticoat was not shaped in any way at the top, but was
gathered in round the waist and fastened as in the case of the man with
a girdle.
[Illustration: FIG. 76.--A simple dress in the form of a petticoat from
an Egyptian figure of the Sixth Dynasty (3500 B.C.), from the Myers
collection in Eton College Museum.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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