similar manner. The beard, although not entirely abandoned to its
natural growth, since it was cut into a shape corresponding to the oval
of the face, instead of the former point, at any rate was no longer
treated by artificial means, such as pomades, elaborate curling, etc.
The portrait type of Pericles or Sophocles (compare Fig. 7) shows us the
finest example of a simple and dignified mode of wearing the beard,
while the ideal head of Zeus from Otricoli, with its artificially parted
beard, in spite of the grandeur of the treatment, is far removed from
the classic simplicity of the age of Pheidias. After Alexander the Great
and his successors it became the custom to shave the whole face. The
portrait statues show us that old men especially, who had formerly
allowed their beard to grow, now almost always shaved it off. Aristotle,
Menander, Poseidippus, the princes of the Alexandrine age, etc., have
smooth-shaven faces. Youths and middle-aged men at that period
sometimes let their beard grow, but old men only did so when they wished
to indicate, by a long, ragged beard, that they were followers of the
Cynic school; for even down to the time of the Empire the long beard was
the distinguishing mark of the philosopher.
[Illustration: FIG. 51.]
[Illustration: FIG. 52.]
The head-dress of women also underwent many changes. We do not know how
their hair was bound up and arranged in the Homeric period, when it was
treated with sweet-scented oils and pomades, which were, in fact, very
common during the heroic period. Mention is especially made of a
cap-like arrangement of the hair, and a plaited braid connected with it.
Helbig believes he has recognised the same fashion in the women’s
head-dress on old Etruscan pictures, on which it is possible to
distinguish a high-pointed cap and a band laid over it. However this may
be, Andromache’s head-dress, as described by Homer, has a distinctly
Oriental character. In the next period the works of art are again our
best guide. They show us that, apart from external ornament, the
head-dress of men and women in ancient times was essentially similar. We
find the long hair either falling freely or in single plaits down the
back (compare Figs. 11 and following); curls falling on the shoulders;
and little ringlets surrounding the forehead; we find the hair tied up
at the back of the neck, or the mode described above of tying it up in
band-like fashion in several places. (Compare also the peculiar
hair-knot in Fig. 11.) We also find that arrangement of double plaits
laid several times round the back of the head, which has been claimed as
the crobylus, although this is only mentioned as a male head-dress. This
last fashion is even found in the graceful Caryatides of the Erechtheum,
but here it is probably a reminiscence of the old custom, natural in
these female figures, which are, as it were, in the service of the
goddess. Otherwise none of these fashions continue beyond the last
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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