The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel BurtonBurton, Isabel, Lady
History
The Life of Captain Sir Richard F. Burton, volume 2 (of 2): By His Wife, Isabel Burton
Burton, Isabel, Lady
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Explorers -- Great Britain -- Biography; Scholars -- Great Britain -- Biography
Turcomans wearing huge mushroom-like caps of Astrachan wool,
Caucasians, Central Asians with wadded skull caps, retail to
crabbed-faced and spectacled scribes. The tall sinewy Kurd, with
gold-threaded _kuffíyyeh_ veiling his dark face, shaven chin, and
up-twisted moustachio, is a sheep-dealer and wrangling with the
lamb-sellers. The tall, lanky Sawakin Moslem, with sphinx-like curls
hanging to his shoulders and over his brow, the upper hair forming a
mighty tuft, is selling the mother-o'-pearl fished on the coast. An
Egyptian Fellah urges a small, neat horse through the crowd, crying his
price--twelve napoleons. The savage Somali offers little parcels of
gums, incense, and myrrh, the produce of the wild hills.
Strings of camels, from the high-bred _delúl_ to the diminutive
charity-made beast laden with grain and led by an equally miserable
Bedawin, who dresses in a long blouse stained yellow with saffron or
acacia bark, and kerchief bound to the head with ropes. They all wear
the _jambíyeh_ (dagger), either long and straight or short and curved.
They carry the crooked stick of the wilderness and the dwarf spear with
tapering head. Skeleton donkeys, holed with many a raw, and laden with
water-skins, are cruelly driven along by a peasant lad in blue rags;
but through the whole crowd we can detect our Shámis, or Damascenes, by
the animal of better breed, ridden well by a huge Haji, whose peculiar
_aba_, or cloak, proclaims him to be an Abu Shám, or father of Syria.
There is the surly, rough Slav Turk from Europe, in the Slav garb,
swaggering, with his belt full of weapons, past the natty sneering
Hejazi, who testily mutters "_Ghásim_" (Johnny Raw). This dandy affects
tender colours--a white turban bound round an embroidered _surah_
cap, a cashmere shawl, a _caftan_ of fine pink cloth, a green worked
waistcoat of silk and cotton, a silver-hilted dagger, and elaborately
embroidered slippers. There is the pauper Javanese with his pock-marked
face, Chinese features, and crooked-bladed Malay dagger; the Jedáwi,
selling at auction white soft coral, the produce of the Red Sea, bought
by pilgrims _in memoriam_ of their pilgrimage, and black coral-like bog
oak, found in thirteen fathoms of water some way down the coast. And
lastly brushed by us four brawny Hayramis, the _hammals_, or porters,
of these regions--men even stouter and stronger than the far-famed
Armenian porters of Constantinople, who carry a lean corpse, whose
toes are tied together; and close by us are seven little negroes with
oil-black skins, dressed in snowy sheets, who cast yearning looks at
us, for they are for sale.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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