As a proof of the extravagant value set upon amber by the Romans of the
first century, Pliny notes that a very diminutive figure of a man, cut
out of this substance, sold for a higher figure than did a healthy,
vigorous slave. The popularity of this material was also attested by the
fact that in the gay world of Rome the term “amber hair” was used to
designate a rare and peculiar shade that became fashionable in this
period.[108] It seems probable that this modish shade was somewhat
lighter than the “Titian hair” once so much favored, although the
difference may not have been very great.
A change of hue in amber was thought to portend a waning of love on the
part of the giver, as is shown by the following not especially melodious
lines from “The Fruits of Jealousy” published by Richard Tofte in
1615:[109]
Thy tokens which to me thou sent
In time may make thee to repent;
Thy gifts do groan (bestow’d on me)
For grief that they thee guilty see.
The amber bracelet thou me gave
(For fear thou shouldst shortly wave[110])
From yellow turned is to pale,
A sign thou shortly will be stale.
Not only for curative purposes and for general use as an amulet was
amber prized, but an amber necklace was sometimes regarded as an
especially auspicious decoration for a bride at her wedding, as is shown
by an exceptionally fine necklace of facetted amber beads from
Brunswick, Germany, made in the eighteenth century.
Our earliest authority on the curative use of amber, the great
encyclopædist Pliny, states that in his day the female peasants of the
valley of the Po, in northern Italy, might be seen wearing amber
necklaces, principally as ornaments, but also because of their remedial
powers; for even at this early period it was generally believed that
amber had most excellent effects in diseases of the throat and tonsils.
The peasants of this region were especially subject to such disorders,
and Pliny conjectures that they were caused by the different sorts of
water in the neighborhood of the Alps.[111] He probably refers not only
to diseases of the throat, properly so called, but also to a swelling of
the glands of the neck, the _goître_ with which so many of the peasants
living on the slopes of the Alps, and in other mountainous regions of
central Europe, are afflicted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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