The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
A penny tramway--you may go anywhere here for a penny--takes you to the
beautiful Park and Fountain of Neptune. The word "fountain" gives an
inadequate notion of the splendid pile, with its vast triple-storied
marble galleries, its sculptured Naiads and dolphins, and on the summit,
towering above park and lake and cascades, its three gigantic sea-horses
and charioteers richly gilt, gleaming as if indeed of massive gold. Is
there any more sumptuous fountain in the world? I doubt it. In spite of
the gilded sea-horses and chariot, there is no tawdriness here; all is
bold, splendid, and imposing. Below the vast terraced galleries and wide
staircases, all of pure marble, flows in a broad sheet the crystal-clear
water, home of myriads of gold fish. The _entourage_ is worthy of so
superb a construction. The fountain stands in the midst of a
scrupulously-kept, tastefully laid-out, ever-verdant park or public
pleasure-ground. In November all is fresh and blooming as in an English
June. Palms, magnolias, bananas, oleanders, camellias, the pepper-tree,
make up a rich, many-tinted foliage. Flowers in winter-time are supplanted
by beds of brilliant leaved plants that do duty for blossoms. The purple,
crimson, and sea-green leaves are arranged with great effect, and have a
brilliant appearance. Here surrounded by gold green turf, are little lakes
which may be sailed across in tiny pleasure skiffs. At the chief entrance,
conspicuously placed, stands the fine equestrian monument to Prim,
inaugurated with much civil and military pomp some years ago. It is a bold
statue in red bronze. The general sits his horse, hat in hand, his fine,
soldier-like face turned towards the city. On the sides of the pedestal
are bas-reliefs recording episodes of his career, and on the front these
words only, "Barcelona à Prim." The work is that of a Spanish artist, and
the monument as a whole reflects great credit alike to local art and
public spirit.
But a few minutes' drive brings us within sight of a monument to one of
the world's heroes. I allude to the memorial column recently raised to
Columbus by this same public-spirited and munificent city of Barcelona.
Columbus, be it remembered, was received here by Ferdinand and Isabella
after his discovery of America in 1493. Far and wide over hills and city,
palm-girt harbor, and sea, as a lighthouse towers the tremendous obelisk,
the figure of the great Genoese surmounting it, his feet placed on a
golden sphere, his outstretched arm pointing triumphantly in the direction
of his newly-discovered continent as much as to say, "It is there!"
Never did undertaking reflect more credit upon a city than this stupendous
work. The entire height of the monument is about two-thirds of the height
of the Monument of London. The execution was entrusted to Barcelonese
craftsmen and artists; the materials--bronze, stone, and marble--all being
supplied in the neighborhood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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