The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
The once celebrated promenade of the Murallo del Mar, eulogized by Ford
and other writers, no longer exists, but the stranger will keep the
sea-line in search of the new cemetery. A very bad road leads thither, on
All Saints' and All Souls' days followed by an unbroken string of
vehicles, omnibuses, covered carts, hackney carriages, and private
broughams; their occupants, for the most part, dressed in black. The
women, wearing black Cashmere mantillas, are hardly visible, being hidden
by enormous wreaths, crosses, and bouquets of natural and also of
artificial flowers. The new cemetery is well placed, being several miles
from the city, on high ground between the open country and the sea. It is
tastefully laid out in terraces--the trees and shrubs testifying to the
care bestowed on them. Here are many costly monuments--mausoleums, we
should rather say--of opulent Barcelonese, each family possessing its tiny
chapel and burial-place.
It is to be hoped that so progressive a city as Barcelona will ere long
adopt the system of cremation. Nothing can be less hygienic, one would
think, than the present mode of burial in Spain. To die there is
literally--not figuratively--to be laid on the shelf. The terrace-like
sides of the cemetery ground have been hollowed out into pigeon-holes, and
into these are thrust the coffins, the marble slab closing the aperture
bearing a memorial inscription. Ivy and other creepers are trained around
the various divisions, and wreaths of fresh flowers and immortelles adorn
them; the whole presenting the appearance of a huge chest of drawers
divided into mathematically exact segments. To us there is something
uncanny--nay, revolting--in such a form of burial; which, to say the least
of it, cannot be warranted on æsthetic, much less scientific, principles.
It is satisfactory to find that at last Protestants and Jews have their
own burial-place here, shut off from the rest, it is true by a wall at
least twenty feet high, but a resting-place for all that. It was not so
very long ago that Malaga was the only Spanish town according Protestants
this privilege, the concession being wrung from the authorities by the
late much-esteemed British consul, Mr. Mark.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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