Germany -- History -- Revolution, 1918; Germany -- Politics and government -- 1918-1933
The return journey was better. I had intended to leave Munich by the
carriage for Augsburg on Friday, but on Thursday afternoon I heard the
two parties had agreed to let a special train run for Munich merchants
exhibiting at the Leipzig Fair. Having done nearly all that I came
for, this chance was not to be missed. So I paid Levien, the Communist
Commissioner, a farewell visit, and got a special permit from him to
go by the Leipzig train. Leaving Munich about four with a train load
of Munich merchants and their assistants, we went very slowly round by
Landshut to Nuremberg, with nothing more sensational than searches for
arms first by Red then by White Guards. The special arrived at
Nuremberg about dawn, and was to wait six hours there; so finding a
train was leaving for Bamberg, the seat of the Hoffmann Government, I
went on there, and spent the morning in the picturesque old town, then
the "Weimar" of Bavaria. Like Weimar, the station was barricaded, and
a pass was required to enter the town. Like Weimar, the town was worth
entering, for food was plentiful.
Having seen the Premier, I got back to pick up the Leipzig special.
But the railway officials had other views, and there was no Red Guard
to overrule them. My Communist permit was useless, and there was no
time to get one from the Bamberg Government. So I had to see the
special steam out. This might have meant a day's delay, as Bavarian
passenger traffic was by now also suspended, the Bohemian coal having
been cut off. I was lucky in getting on in a wooden box hitched on to
a regular dachshund of a goods train, it was so long and slow. It
crawled gasping up into the Thuringer Wald, and there after dark ten
miles from anywhere lay down with no sign of life but an occasional
sigh. After some hours a Prussian engine came down, and pulled it over
the ridge, and we got clear of Bavaria at Probstcella about midnight.
Here there was a great row between the Prussian and Bavarian
railwaymen. The Prussians complaining the Bavarians kept them up to
all hours by being always late and the Bavarians saying it was the bad
coal the Prussians sent them. Our small party, headed by some Bavarian
officers, profited, because we backed the Bavarians, who in return
insisted on our being taken on with the train. Behind the Prussian
engine we developed a surprising turn of speed, and rattled along
expecting at every station to be turned out or shunted until we got
into the main line at Halle. A judicious change at a way station into
a passenger train that overtook us, and three hours' standing up in a
carriage with fourteen people, a large dog, two goats, and a baby,
brought me to Berlin about two on Saturday afternoon.
Nor was this a unique experience. On my last journey home the
locomotive broke down and had to be changed three times before we got
to Hanover.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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