The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpikeHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford and Cromer Road: Sport and history on an East Anglian turnpike
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
That account tells something of the quick changes and varied fortunes of
Audley End, but only a lengthy disquisition could describe its
appearance and contents. Pepys in 1669 made something of an attempt, but
the most convincing part of his discourse is that where he describes how
the housekeeper “took us into the cellar, where we drank most admirable
drink, a health to the King. Here I played on my flageolet, there being
an excellent echo.” But the still more excellent echo seems to have been
that echo of the first drink with which he refreshed himself after his
flageolet-playing. He was here again, and once more in the cellars where
it is not surprising that he found “much good liquors. And indeed the
cellars are fine; and here my wife and I did sing, to my great content.
And then to the garden, and there did eat many grapes, and took some
with us.”
There is little use describing the contents of Audley End at
second-hand, which is the only way it can be done, for the Braybrookes
have excluded the public. But there are exceptionally fine views of the
exterior from the high road, and from the slip road into Saffron Walden.
From this last the fine bridge over the Cam comes effectively into the
picture, but seen from the high road, the great house not only stands
nakedly disclosed, across bare pastures, with never an intervening hedge
or tree, but looks coldly inhospitable and desolate, even although the
extensive stone front is designed in the rich Jacobean style. The
prominent, copper-covered cupolas are a bright green.
But if Audley End does by no means look homely, the scenery is
delightful. The road passes through an open common on the left, planted
with park-like clumps of trees, and with the pretty feature of green
alleys cut through dense coppices. Ahead, down the road, the red-brick
gabled stables of the mansion, older than the mansion itself, lend a
ruddy and cheerful tone. Beyond them the lodge-gates are passed: modern
additions, with the great stone bull’s heads of the Nevilles’ crest
surmounting the piers, and on the roof-ridge of the lodge an heraldic
griffin ramped up on his hinder part and holding two daggers in his
paws. He is a would-be impressive griffin, but his singularly apologetic
attitude, like that of a French poodle on his hind legs, begging for
biscuits and conscious all the while that he is making a fool of
himself, is only laughable.
XV
[Illustration: SAFFRON WALDEN.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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