Not even the five-legged calves missed their share of plunder at
Niagara, according to Mr. Howells, who paid his money out to assure
himself, as he affirms, that this marvel was in no wise comparable to
the Falls. "I do not say that the picture of the calf on the outside of
the tent," he observes, "was not as good as some pictures of Niagara I
have seen. It was, at least, as much like." A writer of a decade before
this (1850) speaks very strongly of the impositions to which a traveller
is subjected at Niagara. How early in the century complaints began to
appear cannot be stated; it would be interesting to be able to get
information on this point since it would determine a more important
matter still--the time when the Falls began to attract visitors in
sufficient proportions to bring into existence the evils we find very
prevalent at the middle of the century. The latter writer observes:
It would be paying Niagara a poor compliment to say that,
practically she does not hurl off this chaffering by-play from
her cope; but as you value the integrity of your impression, you
are bound to affirm that it hereby suffers appreciable
abatement; you wonder, as you stroll about, whether it is
altogether an unrighteous dream that with the slow progress of
culture, and the possible or impossible growth of some larger
comprehension of beauty and fitness, the public conscience may
not tend to ensure to such sovereign phases of nature something
of the inviolability and privacy which we are slow to bestow,
indeed, upon fame, but which we do not grudge, at least, to art.
We place a great picture, a great statue, in a museum; we erect
a great monument in the centre of our largest square, and if we
can suppose ourselves nowadays building a cathedral, we should
certainly isolate it as much as possible and subject it to no
ignoble contact. We cannot build about Niagara with walls and a
roof, nor girdle it with a palisade; but the sentimental tourist
may muse upon the chances of its being guarded by the negative
homage of empty spaces, and absent barracks, and decent
forbearance. The actual abuse of the scene belongs evidently to
that immense class of iniquities which are destined to grow very
much worse in order to grow a very little better. The good
humour engendered by the main spectacle bids you suffer it to
run its course.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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