The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
The occasion was one well calculated to arouse enthusiasm for the
well-known comforts of the old-time English hostelry. He had come, with
the faithful Boswell, by post-chaise from Oxford, on the way to
Birmingham; it was the inclement season of spring, the way was long, and
the wind, blowing across the bleak Oxfordshire downs, was cold. Welcome,
then, the blazing fire of the “Shakespeare’s Head”--for that was the real
name of the house--and doubly welcome that dinner for which they had
halted. Can we wonder that the worthy Doctor was eloquent? I think not.
“There is no private house,” said he, “in which people can enjoy
themselves so well as in a capital tavern.... No man but a very impudent
dog indeed can as freely command what is in another man’s house as if it
were his own; whereas, at a tavern, there is a general freedom from
anxiety. You are sure you are welcome; and the more noise you make, the
more trouble you give, the more good things you call for, the welcomer you
are. No servants will attend you with the alacrity which waiters do, who
are incited by the prospect of an immediate reward in proportion as they
please. No, sir, there is nothing which has yet been contrived by man, by
which so much happiness is provided as by a good tavern or inn.”
The “Chapel House” inn took its name from a wayside chapel formerly
standing here, anciently belonging to the neighbouring Priory of Cold
Norton. At a later period, when education began to spread and the roads
were travelled by scholars and others on their way to and from Oxford,
Brasenose College took over the conduct of it, both as an oratory and a
guest-house for the succour of wayfarers along these then unenclosed and
absolutely lonely downs. A priest was maintained here until 1547.
Afterwards the site seems to have been occupied by a mansion built by
William Fitzalan, of Over Norton: a house that gave place in its turn to
the inn.
Few ever knew “Chapel House” inn by its real name. It doubtless obtained
the title from surviving traditions of Shakespeare having partaken of the
hospitality of the old guest-house, on his journeys between
Stratford-on-Avon and London. It is, indeed, singular how such traditions
survive in this neighbourhood, the “Crown” at Oxford being traditionally
the successor of the house where Shakespeare usually inned, and an old
Elizabethan mansion at Grendon Underwood, formerly an inn, a halting-place
when he chose another route and went by that village and Aylesbury to
London.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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