Morocco -- Description and travel; Morocco -- Foreign relations
‘Plenty time, Mr. Moore,’ said Driss, holding up his brown hands and
chuckling. ‘There are many, many; more ’an three hundred, and many
soldiers, and many Soudanese,’ by which last Driss meant slaves. There
was indeed plenty of time; it took the company all that day and part
of the next to cross by the slow, heavy barges, carrying twenty people
and half-a-dozen animals at each load, and rowed generally by two men,
sometimes by only one.
We descended from the Kasbah and made our way down the street of shops,
the Sok or market street, as it is called, and out through the Water
Port to the rock-studded sands upon which the caravan was landing. It
was an extraordinary sight. The tide was out, and the water, which at
high tide laps the greenish walls, now left a sloping shore of twenty
yards. The boats when loaded would push up the river close to the other
shore, then taking the current off a prominent point, swing over in an
arc to the Rabat side. Empty, they would go back the same way by an
inner arc. On our side they ran aground generally between two rocks,
when the black, bare-legged eunuchs, dropping their slippers, would
elevate their skirts by taking up a reef at the belts, and jump into
the water to take the women to dry land on their stalwart backs. Only
in rare instances did much of the woman’s face show--and then she was
a pretty woman and young; those old or pock-marked were always careful
to cover, even to the extent of hiding one eye. Nevertheless the wives
of the Sultan as they got upon the backs of his slaves gathered their
_sulhams_ up about their knees, displaying part of a leg, in almost
every case unstockinged, and always dangling a heelless slipper of red
native leather. In Morocco, as I have indicated before, the costumes
of men and those of women are practically the same except for fullness
and, in the case of nether-garments, colour. The short trousers of a
man, for instance, are generally brown and his slippers never anything
(when new) but yellow.
The Sultan’s wives with few exceptions were covered in white _sulhams_;
round their heads were bands of blue ribbon knotted at the back, fixing
their hoods and veils for riding. While the slaves brought up the
luggage, working with a will like men conducting their own business,
the women held the mules and horses, covered with wads of blanket,
all of Ottoman red, and mounted with high red Arab saddles. The women
were usually subdued and to all appearances modest, though all of them
would let their black eyes look upon the infidels longer than would the
modest maid of a race that goes unveiled. But of course we were a sight
to them not of every day. Now and then a lady whose robe was of better
quality than most, seemed distressed about some jewel case or special
piece of luggage, and worried her servant, who argued back in a manner
of authority. It was evident the slaves had charge each of a particular
lady for whom he was responsible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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