The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
Fish, less nutritious than flesh and more succulent than
vegetables, is a mezzo termine, which suits all temperments and
which persons recovering from illness may safely eat.
The Greeks and Romans, though they had not made as much progress
as we have in the art of seasoning fish, esteemed it very highly,
and were so delicate that they could even tell where it had been
taken.
Large fish ponds were maintained, and the cruelty of Vellius
Pollis who fed his lampreys on the bodies of slaves he caused to
be slain is well known. This cruelty Domitian disapproved of but
should have punished.
There has been much discussion as to which is the best fish.
The question will never be decided, for as the Spanish proverb
says, sobre los gustos no hai disputa. Every one is effected in
his own way. These fugitive sensations can be expressed by no
known character, and there is no scale to measure if a CAT-FISH
(!), a sole, or a turbot are better than a salmon, trout, pike, or
even tench of six or seven pounds.
It is well understood that fish is less nourishing than meat,
because it contains no osmazome, because it is lighter in weight,
and contains less weight in the same volume. Shell-fish, and
especially oysters, furnish little nutrition, so that one can eat
a great many without injury.
It will be remembered that not long ago any well arranged
entertainment began with oysters, and that many guests never
paused without swallowing a gross (144). I was anxious to know the
weight of this advance guard, and I ascertained that a dozen
oysters, fluid included, weighed four ounces averdupois. Now look
on it as certain that the same persons who did not make a whit the
worse dinner, on account of the oysters would have been completely
satisfied if they had eaten the same weight of flesh or of
chicken.
ANECDOTE.
In 1798 I was at Versailles as a commissary of the Directory, and
frequently met M. Laperte, greffier of the count of the
department. He was very fond of oysters, and used to complain that
he had never had enough.
I resolved to procure him this satisfaction, and invited him to
dine with me on the next day.
He came. I kept company with him to the tenth dozen, after which I
let him go on alone. He managed to eat thirty-two dozen within an
hour for the person who opened them was not very skilful.
In the interim, I was idle, and as that is always a painful state
at the table, I stopped him at the moment when he was in full
swing. "Mon cher," said I, "you will not to-day eat as many
oysters as you meant--let us dine." We did so, and he acted as if
he had fasted for a week.
Muria-Garum
The ancients extracted from fish two highly flavored seasonings,
muria and garum.
The first was the juice of the thuny, or to speak more precisely,
the liquid substance which salt causes to flow from the fish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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