The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 4Whymper, Frederick
History
The Sea: Its Stirring Story of Adventure, Peril, & Heroism. Volume 4
Whymper, Frederick
Adventure and adventurers; Arctic regions; Ocean; Voyages around the world
One of the writer’s recollections of the Sierra region is not so pleasant,
but then it was under its winter aspect. He had been warned on leaving San
Francisco that the railway might be “snowed up,” as it was in 1871‐2, when
for several weeks there was a blockade, and he was recommended to go to
New York _viâ_ Panama. That voyage he had once made, and, besides, had a
desire to see the continent in winter, when the journey from the Sierra
Nevada Mountains to New York is made through 3,000 miles of snow. So he
started, and for twelve hours or so all went well; but at the very
“summit” of the railway line, _i.e._, its highest point among the Sierra
Nevada, and near the station of the same name, the train came suddenly to
a standstill in the gloom of a long “snow‐shed” tunnel. Worse, as it
seemed to some, the engine deserted it, and ran away, while the conductor
was also absent for a long time. The carriages were not too well lighted,
although quite warm enough, thanks to the glowing stoves, while memories
of former blockades and half‐starved passengers did not aid in reassuring
the frozen‐in travellers. Few slept that night, and, indeed, in one
carriage, where there were several squalling babies and scolding females,
it would have been difficult. Some of the older travellers, who had
something of Mark Tapleyism about them, did their best to cheer the rest,
and passed their wicker‐covered demijohns—flasks are hardly enough for a
seven days’ journey, which might be indefinitely extended—to those who had
not provided themselves; one individual did his best to relieve the
monotony with a song; but it fell rather flat, and melancholy reigned
supreme.(12) But not for long. About seven next morning there was a
commotion; a whistle in the distance; another nearer, which, hoarse as it
was, sounded like heavenly music; and in a few minutes the good locomotive
arrived, coupled with the train, and took it to the nearest station, where
breakfast was ready for all who would partake. And that breakfast! Trout,
chicken, venison, hot bread, buckwheat cakes, and molasses, and all the
usual, and some other of the unusual, adjuncts of a regular American meal.
The traveller must not expect all these luxuries at places nearer the
centre of the continent, where, in some cases, all that you will get are
beans and bacon, hot bread, tea or coffee, and perhaps stewed (dried)
apples or peaches. At such places the excuse is sufficient, for everything
is brought from a considerable distance, while the stations themselves
have only been erected for the railway, and sometimes do not boast a
single dwelling other than those immediately connected with it.
[Illustration: ON THE PACIFIC RAILWAY: THE INTERIOR OF A SNOW‐SHED IN THE
SIERRA NEVADA.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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