The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
The commencement of the journey, after leaving Valladolid _en route_
for Madrid, lay through vast tracts of sandy plains, with the far
horizon bounded by brazen hills like those of Africa, and long, lofty
table-lands, beneath which the Nile might well be streaming. But this
is indeed, at this season at all events, a dry and barren land, where
no water is. However, many broad acres of this now arid country were
a few months ago smiling with waving corn. Still desolation must in
a great measure be the general characteristic of the scene, with
Oriental-looking mountains of bare sand, on which nothing can grow but
stones, and where life is rarely seen in any form save that of the
wild goat, the vulture, and the outlaw. There is little doubt that, at
one of those far distant epochs with which geological science makes
us familiar, the two continents joined at the spot where are now the
Straits of Gibraltar, and that Spain was then continuous with Africa.
In point of fact, the soil of Spain, as far as Burgos, has precisely
the same characteristics as that of Africa.
So on we glide, over plains and tracts of glaring sand, enlivened only
here and there by a solitary peasant driving a flock of black sheep
over the white expanse to places where a few miserable patches of some
rank vegetation offer a meagre grazing ground for the poor animals. At
long intervals there appears, seated on the plain like some low, flat
island, a wretched poverty-stricken town, the burning rays of the sun
reflected from its broken house-tops and off its yellow walls. In the
far distance the eye may perhaps distinguish another, and after we have
passed it, yet another, rising far away, isolated on the dreary waste.
A large church seems to domineer over the hovels beneath, its toppling
spire leaning as it were with neglect and exhaustion. Scarce a soul
appears amidst these mural wildernesses. There is none of that stir,
animation, and cheerfulness which generally accompany city, town, or
village life in other countries. The burning sun, the sandy desert,
the monotonous wilderness, have evidently left their impress on the
character of the people. As we proceed rapidly over the plain, a pile
of tower and battlement in ruins--a relic of heroic story, and of the
glories of other days--appears before us, standing midst the solitude
like the skeleton of some long-forgotten animal which had fallen there
when the world was yet young, and over which now the wild birds scream
and whirl, while the long, rank weeds which nearly cover it sigh to the
passing breeze.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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