The interlude opened with a real holiday, which was in truth amply
deserved. After a fortnight's stay in Paris, spent in seeing theatres,
sights, and a deal of company, Lord John Russell and his travelling
companion posted off through France to Geneva; explored the associations
of Ferney under the guidance of Dumont, the translator of Bentham, and
sometime tutor to Lord Lansdowne; and then set out for the Alps. The
passage over the Simplon, and the sight of the Jungfrau with the
sunset-flush on its snows, so wrought upon Moore's emotions that he shed
tears. At Milan the travellers parted company, Lord John proceeding to
Genoa, while Moore's destinations were Venice and Rome. Travelling
alone, in the "crazy little calèche" which he had been advised to buy,
was no joy, and he gladly reached La Mira, Byron's country house, two
hours' drive from Padua. The friends met for the first time after a
separation of five years, and Moore's note of the occurrence is
curiously lacking in warmth. The Byron whom he had known and liked so
well was a different person from the Byron of Italy. Much had happened
in the interval, and with a great deal of Byron's later, and maturer,
work, Moore was very imperfectly in sympathy. Nor did the Countess
Guiccioli much impress him. Byron, who had put his Venetian palace at
Moore's disposal, commended him to his friend Scott, who showed the
traveller round the place. A day or two later Byron came to Venice, and
there was much intimate talk between the two men. On the 11th of
October, Moore paid a farewell visit to La Mira and the Countess; and
before the poets parted, a notable thing happened. Lord Byron handed to
Moore the Memoirs of himself, of which Moore had heard for the first
time a few days earlier.
From Padua to Ferrara and so to Florence we trace in the Diary rather a
homesick gentleman, who begins to affect the virtuoso a little, and at
the time to collect notes for an epistle on the cant of connoisseurs. In
Florence he found some acquaintances, and they were in shoals before him
at Rome, where he arrived in the end of October. During the three weeks
of his stay here, Chantrey the sculptor and Jackson the painter--to the
latter of whom Moore at this time sat--were his principal associates,
and he left Rome in their company. His impressions of Italy savour a
little too much of second-hand ideas to be of interest. Moore had,
evidently enough, no education in art and yet was so susceptible to
surrounding influences that his talk was all of pictures, statuary,
buildings and so forth. His judgments on the music which he heard are in
strong contrast, brief and confident--the utterance of a genuine taste.
But the friendship formed with Chantrey seems to have been sympathetic
and lasting, based on a common interest in human character.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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