Three gringos in Venezuela and Central AmericaDavis, Richard Harding
General
Three gringos in Venezuela and Central America
Davis, Richard Harding
Central America -- Description and travel; Louisiana State Lottery Company; Venezuela -- Description and travel
The republics of Central America are republics in name only, and
the movements of a stranger within the boundaries of Honduras are
as closely watched as though he were a newspaper correspondent in
Siberia. I often had to sign the names of our party twice in one day
for the benefit of police and customs officers, and we never entered
a hotel or boarded a steamer or disembarked from one that we were not
carefully checked and receipted for exactly as though we were boxes of
merchandise or registered letters. Even the natives cannot walk the
street after nightfall without being challenged by sentries, and the
collection of letters we received from alcaldes and comandantes and
governors and presidents certifying to our being reputable citizens
is large enough to paper the side of a wall. The only time in Central
America when our privacy was absolutely unmolested, and when we felt as
free to walk abroad as though we were on the streets of New York, was
when we were under the protection of the hated monarchical institution
of Great Britain at Belize, but never when we were in any of these
disorganized military camps called free republics.
The Central-American citizen is no more fit for a republican form of
government than he is for an arctic expedition, and what he needs is to
have a protectorate established over him, either by the United States
or by another power; it does not matter which, so long as it leaves the
Nicaragua Canal in our hands. In the capital of Costa Rica there is a
statue of the Republic in the form of a young woman standing with her
foot on the neck of General Walker, the American filibuster. We had
planned to go to the capital for the express purpose of tearing that
statue down some night, or blowing it up; so it is perhaps just as well
for us that we could not get there; but it would have been a very good
thing for Costa Rica if Walker, or any other man of force, had put his
foot on the neck of every republic in Central America and turned it to
some account.
Away from the coasts, where there is fever, Central America is a
wonderful country, rich and beautiful, and burdened with plenty, but
its people make it a nuisance and an affront to other nations, and its
parcel of independent little states, with the pomp of power and none of
its dignity, are and will continue to be a constant danger to the peace
which should exist between two great powers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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