Three textile raw materials and their manufactureInternational Acceptance Bank
Science
Three textile raw materials and their manufacture
International Acceptance Bank
Textile fabrics; Textile fibers; Textile industry
Conditioning is desirable principally on account of the fact that raw
silk absorbs considerable moisture. A careless buyer may find after
delivery that he has purchased more water than he has silk. To avoid
this possibility, Asiatic and European markets in particular have
adopted the conditioned weight basis—absolute dry weight plus 11 per
cent moisture. Quotations are often given on invoice weight, which is
conditioned weight plus a 2% margin for variation.
A conditioning house, besides examining for weight, also conducts
numerous other tests necessary to conditioned silk. The main
factors taken into consideration, besides weight, are size, color,
cleanliness, boil-off, winding strength, elasticity, and general
uniformity.
[Sidenote: _Weight_]
As regards size, the unit is the denier, an ancient French weight
equal to .05 gram; the size is measured by the weight in deniers of
450 meters of the thread. As previously stated, the 13/15 denier
size is the standard used in the United States, although the larger
and smaller grades are dealt in to some extent for special types of
products. Size is always given as averaging between certain deniers
(such as 13 to 15) as it is impossible to attain absolute accuracy in
reeling, and slight variations cannot be avoided, either within the
bales or within the skeins themselves.
[Sidenote: _Color_]
The color test is concerned merely with uniformity in shade, which
makes accurate dyeing possible. The cultivated silks are either pure
white or yellow, according to the variety of cocoon from which they
are derived.
[Sidenote: “_Boil off_”]
The term “boil off” refers to the amount or percentage of gum on the
filament. As explained before, the individual strands of fibre adhere
together through a gummy substance secreted by the worm. The amount
found in the reeled silk varies with different kinds from 10 to 25
per cent by weight—which is brought down to a minimum by the boiling
process.
[Sidenote: _Winding Strength_]
Winding strength is measured by the breaks that occur in winding. In
this country the test is based on the number of breaks occurring in
30 or more skeins wound at the rate of about 120 yards per minute.
This test is extremely important since a weak thread can do much to
hinder an efficient re-reeling process, inasmuch as each break stops
the machine and must be tied by the operator.
3. GRADING AND QUOTATIONS
[Sidenote: _Classification_]
[Sidenote: _Difficulties in Grading_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Three textile raw materials and their manufacture — John Shaqi
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