Through the Casentino with Hints for the TravellerEckenstein, Lina
History
Through the Casentino with Hints for the Traveller
Eckenstein, Lina
Casentino (Italy) -- Description and travel; Tuscany (Italy) -- Description and travel
There seemed no end to the stories associated with Dante which were
localised in this neighbourhood. Palmieri, a writer of the early
fifteenth century, described an incident, which he says befell Dante on
Campaldino. The poet and the triumphant Guelfs after the battle pursued
the enemy as far as Bibbiena and beyond it, and on the third day they
returned to look for their friends and to bury the dead. Dante found a
friend, who either “was not quite dead or else suddenly revived,” and
who proceeded to describe what he had seen during these days of Hell and
Purgatory, words through which the whole plan of the _Comedy_ was
revealed to Dante. The account contains expressions which recall Dante’s
description, still it is sufficiently distinct. It rambles on over
about half a dozen pages in print without definite plan or purpose.
It was with a feeling of regret that we left Poppi, which played so
important a part in the history of the district. We left it early one
morning and crossed Campaldino, now, as six hundred years ago, green
with sprouting corn. Beyond it the driving road over the Consuma begins
its steady ascent along a mountain spur which is formed by the Arno and
its tributary the Solano. The old road branched off, following the
course of the Solano, and up this we went to explore.
I presume that foreigners carrying knapsacks for their convenience do
not often walk in these parts. We had been accosted before and asked
what our _roba_ was, and women especially joined us along the road in
hopes of driving a bargain in needles and scissors. In the valley of the
Solano our appearance brought concern to the heart of a professional
pedlar, who eyed us askance. When we came down the valley again in the
afternoon we were met by a woman, who told us she had been looking out
for us ever since we went past in the morning; might she see our wares?
She too looked upon us as rivals of the pedlar.
We found the narrow, tortuous valley of the Solano oppressive and
unattractive, and we did not penetrate much beyond Strada San Niccolo,
a town of high houses built close between the mountain sides. Here too
the history of many centuries lay condensed, as it were, in a nutshell.
The ancient church near the castle, now deserted--the ruins of the
castle itself, long a stronghold of the Guidi, which the growing Commune
destroyed in the fifteenth century--the modern city with its
manufactories--each represented a special phase in the history of
growing civilisation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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