Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855 — John Shaqi
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855Barth, Heinrich
History
Travels and discoveries in North and Central Africa, Vol. 1 (of 5) : $b being a journal of an expedition undertaken under the auspices of H.B.M.'s Government, in the years 1849-1855
Barth, Heinrich
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Africa, North -- Description and travel
Continuing our march through the valley N.E., and passing the village
Bu-Mát and the ruined old places called Hanshír Metelíli and Hanshír
Jamúm[16], we reached the ruins of another old place called Hanshír
Settára, in the centre of the olive-grove. The houses, which in general
are built of small irregular stones, present a remarkable contrast to a
pair of immense slabs, above ten feet long and regularly hewn, standing
upright, which I at first supposed to be remnants of a large building;
but having since had a better opportunity of studying this subject, I
concluded that they were erected, like the cromlechs, for some religious
purpose. On the road back to our encampment, the inhabitants of Gamúdi,
who were unwilling to part company with me, gave vent to their hatred
against the Turks in a singular way. While passing a number of saffron-
plantations, which I said proved the productiveness of their country,
they maintained that the present production of saffron is as nothing
compared to what it was before the country came into the impious hands
of the Osmanlis. In former times, they said, several stems usually shot
forth from the same root, whereas now scarcely a single sample can be
found with more than one stalk,—a natural consequence of the
contamination or pollution (nejes) of the Turks, whose predominance had
caused even the laws of nature to deteriorate. In order to prove the
truth of this, they went about the fields and succeeded in finding only
a single specimen with several stems issuing from the same root.
Passing the subterranean villages of Suayeh and Ushen, and further on
that called Housh el Yehúd, which, as its name indicates, is entirely
inhabited by Jews, we reached our encampment in the housh of Ibrahim.
The subterranean dwellings which have been described by Captain
Lyon[17], seem to me to have originated principally with the Jews, who,
from time immemorial had become intimately connected with the Berbers,
many of the Berber tribes having adopted the Jewish creed; and just in
the same way as they are found mingling with the Berbers in these
regions—for the original inhabitants of the Ghurián belong entirely to
the Berber race—on friendly terms, so are they found also in the
recesses of the Atlas in Morocco.
[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.
M. & N. Hanhart, lith. et impt.
KASR GHURIÁN.
Feby. 13th. 1850.]
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