“We had at Bath a troupe of Irish comedians, alternately emperors,
shepherds, clowns, and no doubt very badly fed. The young man who
played the lover found great difficulty in pronouncing his consonants.
A tall, thin man played the tragic role of enamored prince. A blonde
soubrette was solemnly coquettish. The others of the troupe are
scarcely to be recalled. We had tragedy, comedy, comic opera, and
farce. Every week there was a dance. Billiards was an amusement, and
there was play at the taverns, particularly after the arrival of a
gentleman who kept a Pharaoh bank. He was treated with great courtesy,
and I heard nothing said against his probity. Nevertheless, it happens
that the planter who arrives at Bath with equipage and attendants goes
home with nothing but a horse, and a very mean horse.
“I hired a horse to go to Winchester. For more than half of the way
the country is wild. As you draw nearer the town in the Valley, many
well-stocked farms appear, the land being very fertile. On the slope
there range strong, long-wooled sheep, not afraid of wolves during the
summer. Such war is made upon the wolves that even in this heavily
timbered country there is little danger from them except when the
snow lies deep upon the ground. It is a magnificent country about
Winchester. The men are tall, well-made, of strong constitutions, and
ruddy. The horses and cattle have the eye and the gait of health.
I stopped at a tavern kept by a German, who has made a fortune in
the business. I was treated with consideration, for having lived at
Strasbourg and for having crossed the Rhine. At this tavern there is a
good cook, the meat is excellent, there is game and fresh-water fish;
the house is well furnished, wines of every country, good linen, good
beds, the rooms well lighted, and the whole at a reasonable price. The
day after I arrived there came to the tavern an old gentleman limping
from the gout. I mentioned Thomas Payne to him and the ‘Rights of
Man.’ He fixed me with his eye, out the air with his stick, and said
vehemently that he wished Thomas Payne was hanged. He left me, and at
the same time I got up, whistling the air of ‘Ca Ira.’ I learned the
cause of his behavior: he had held a lucrative office before the war,
and was an incurable Tory.
“A Mr. Smith, who lives a mile from Winchester, asked me to dine.
I spent the time very agreeably there. From the liberality of his
opinions I was led to discuss the political situation of America with
considerable frankness. Mr. Smith and his brother-in-law accompanied me
back to Winchester, discoursing by the way of their fortunate lot, of
the progress of agriculture, and of the richness of the inexhaustible
soil, which yields an abundance to the inhabitants of this beautiful
Valley.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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