Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833Burnes, Alexander, Sir
History
Travels Into Bokhara (Volume 2 of 3): Being the Account of A Journey from India to Cabool, Tartary, and Persia; Also, Narrative of a Voyage on the Indus, From the Sea to Lahore, With Presents From the King of Great Britain; Performed Under the Orders of the Supreme Government of India, in the Years 1831, 1832, and 1833
Burnes, Alexander, Sir
Afghanistan -- Description and travel; Asia, Central -- Description and travel; Bukhoro (Uzbekistan) -- Description and travel; Burnes, Alexander, Sir, 1805-1841 -- Travel; Indus River Valley -- Description and travel
After the alarm which we had already experienced in Shurukhs, it was
not desirable that we should mingle much with the people; but I had
great curiosity to see them, and our Toorkmun Ernuzzer said I was
invited to a friend’s house, and I accompanied him without further
consideration. I was very agreeably surprised to find these wandering
people living here, at least, in luxury. The tent or khirgah was
spacious, and had a diameter of about twenty-five feet. The sides were
of lattice-work, and the roof was formed of laths, which branched
from a circular hoop, about three feet in diameter, through which the
light is admitted. The floor was spread with felts and carpets, of
the richest manufacture, which looked like velvet. Fringed carpets
were also hung up round the tent, which gave it a great finish, and
their beauty was no doubt enhanced by their being the work of wives
and daughters. On one side of the tent was a small press, in which
the females of the family kept their clothes, and above it were piled
the quilts on which they slept. These are of variegated coloured
cloth, both silk and cotton. From the circular aperture in the roof,
three large tassels of silk were suspended, differing in colour, and
neatly wrought by some fair young hand. Altogether, the apartment and
its furniture bespoke any thing but an erratic people; yet the host
explained to me that the whole house could be transported on one camel,
and its furniture on another. On my return I expressed my surprise at
such comfort, but my companions in the caravan bade me not wonder at
such a display, since the Toorkmuns were _man-eaters_ (adum khor), and
got their food for nothing. Many a nation has been written down as
cannibals on as slight grounds; but the people merely meant to tell me
that they lived on the proceeds of man-selling. Before I quitted the
tent, the host produced bread and melons, according to their custom, of
which we partook, with about fifteen other Toorkmuns, who had dropped
in. They cut up a melon with great dexterity and neatness, separate
the pulp from the skin, which is not thicker than that of an orange,
by a single sweep of the knife, then dividing it into a dozen pieces.
I listened for about half an hour to their conversation, the subject
of which I could comprehend to be slaves and horses. They took me for
a native of Cabool, from the loongee which I wore as a turban, nor did
I undeceive them. They all got up as I left, and bade me good-bye with
all the respect of a good Mahommedan. They might not have injured me
had they known the truth, but they would have detained me with endless
questions; and, as it was, I saw their customs without inconvenience. I
was never so much struck with the Tatar features as in this assemblage.
The Toorkmun has a skull like a Chinese, his face is flat, his cheek
bones project, and his countenance tapers to the chin, which has a most
scanty crop of hair. He is by no means ugly, and his body and features
are alike manly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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