Wild Wales: The People, Language, & SceneryBorrow, George
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Wild Wales: The People, Language, & Scenery
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Wales; Wales -- Description and travel
I told him my name, and asked him for his.
“Edward Jones,” he replied.
CHAPTER X
The Berwyn—Mountain Cottage—The Barber’s Pole.
On the following morning I strolled up the Berwyn on the south-west of
the town, by a broad winding path, which was at first very steep, but by
degrees became less so. When I had accomplished about three parts of the
ascent I came to a place where the road, or path, divided into two. I
took the one to the left, which seemingly led to the top of the mountain,
and presently came to a cottage from which a dog rushed barking towards
me; an old woman, however, coming to the door, called him back. I said a
few words to her in Welsh, whereupon in broken English she asked me to
enter the cottage and take a glass of milk. I went in and sat down on a
chair which a sickly-looking young woman handed to me. I asked her in
English who she was, but she made no answer, whereupon the old woman told
me that she was her daughter and had no English. I then asked her in
Welsh what was the matter with her; she replied that she had the cryd or
ague. The old woman now brought me a glass of milk, and said in the
Welsh language that she hoped that I should like it. What further
conversation we had was in the Cambrian tongue. I asked the name of the
dog, who was now fondling upon me, and was told that his name was
Pharaoh. I inquired if they had any books, and was shown two, one a
common Bible printed by the Bible Society, and the other a volume in
which the Book of Prayer of the Church of England was bound up with the
Bible, both printed at Oxford, about the middle of the last century. I
found that both mother and daughter were Calvinistic Methodists. After a
little further discourse I got up and gave the old woman twopence for the
milk; she accepted it, but with great reluctance. I inquired whether by
following the road I could get to the Pen y bryn or the top of the hill.
They shook their heads and the young woman said that I could not, as the
road presently took a turn and went down. I asked her how I could get to
the top of the hill. “Which part of the top?” said she. “I’r
gor-uchaf,” I replied. “That must be where the barber’s pole stands,”
said she. “Why does the barber’s pole stand there?” said I. “A barber
was hanged there a long time ago,” said she, “and the pole was placed to
show the spot.” “Why was he hanged?” said I. “For murdering his wife,”
said she. I asked her some questions about the murder, but the only
information she could give me was, that it was a very bad murder and
occurred a long time ago. I had observed the pole from our garden at
Llangollen, but had concluded that it was a common flagstaff. I inquired
the way to it. It was not visible from the cottage, but they gave me
directions how to reach it. I bade them farewell, and in about a quarter
of an hour reached the pole on the top of the hill. I imagined that I
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