With little in the way of public amusement or general intercourse,
Mentone and its neighbourhood offer some subjects of interesting
inquiry. If employment does not come readily to hand, it may possibly be
evoked by looking about. The medieval old town; the character and habits
of the people; excursions on foot or donkey to the mountainous region,
with its decayed castles and sun-baked villages perched thousands of
feet above the sea-level; the picturesque sea-coast, with its caverns
and traditions of Saracenic invasion; the mouldering tokens of Roman
sway—all will yield matter for agreeable exploration. Turbia and Monaco
should be deliberately seen, if not already visited; and so likewise
should Ventimiglia and Bordighera—the latter for the sake of its
palm-trees. I am sorry to say there is no handy local guide-book,
affording that minute explicitness of detail expected from works of this
nature. The native topographers write prettily, and even poetically, of
the surrounding district; a guide-book, however, is not bought for fine
writing, but, like an almanac, is looked to for plain trustworthy facts.
The best of the books of the kind is entitled a _Guide des Etrangers à
Menton_, by M. Pessy; it comprehends a good map, which is at all events
indispensable. In the prevailing state of things, the explorer will have
to rely greatly on his own powers of investigation, assisted, if it
happily may be, by friends well acquainted with this outlying part of
the Alpes Maritimes.
The ever present, and often noisy Mediterranean can scarcely fail to
suggest historic recollections. Around it were clustered all the great
nations of antiquity. It is the sea of the Bible, that on which Paul
encountered misadventures. It is the sea which the Crusaders had to
cross in their delirious expeditions to the Holy Land. Now, in
comparison to the great oceans of modern discovery, it is only a
salt-water lake, yet rich in the legends which undyingly hover about it.
Physically considered, it is curious. Barred out by the Strait of
Gibraltar, the tidal wave of the Atlantic operates but feebly on the
Mediterranean. Residents at Mentone recognise little difference in the
height to which the water flows on the beach. The sea may be twice a day
a few inches higher or lower; but except in the case of winds affecting
it somewhere, and causing it to dash high up on the shore, it has a
monotonous uniformity of appearance. The beach consists of rounded
stones and gravel, not agreeable for being walked on, and on that
species of gray shingle the waves are everlastingly surging. Sometimes
in the calmest days and nights, its roar is most outrageous and trying
to the nerves. Suddenly, when level as a pond, it will assume an angry
aspect, with white breakers in the distance. In short, it is very
whimsical and incomprehensible in its varying moods; and those who
dislike its more placid or its more uproarious proceedings had better
live away from its shores.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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