The roads from Ypres radiate like spokes of a wheel. To pass from
westward to eastward of Ypres you must go through the city. During the
fight all the immense activity of the rear of an army, redoubled in
intensity when a battle is in progress, went on in and about Ypres,
whose century-old houses, with their red roofs and overhanging gables,
will be ever associated with the battle in the minds of those who
fought there. For three weeks, while our thin line resisted the mighty
smashes of the flower of the German army, the guns drummed almost
unceasingly in the distance, and the little motor ambulances came
whirring over the uneven cobble-stones of the city, bearing in the
wounded to the field dressing-station, an unending procession of pain.
Ypres could not remain unscathed in the battle. Soon the German
batteries took the proud towers of the Cloth Hall and St. Martin’s
for their goal, and amid a rain of shells pouring into the city, the
luckless inhabitants, once again after centuries, were compelled to fly
for safety out along the bare and dusty road that leads to Poperinghe.
The Poperinghe road! Who of our army in the field that has ever passed
along it will ever forget that hideous highway--the road of pain for
many, the road of death for many, the road of glory for all? I have
traversed it in all weathers and in all conditions, and never have I
seen it without a feeling almost of dread, the sensation of treading on
ground sanctified by the feet of heroes going to their death.
Straight and ugly and flat, lined with tall poplars with bushy tops,
set in the centre with uneven _pavé_ worn bright by the wheels of a
thousand motor-cars and lorries and carts, the Poperinghe road has been
the silent witness of all the vicissitudes of the stupendous struggles
which have raged about Ypres. On its polished _pavé_ the emotions of
a million men have been ground fine by the relentless wheels of the
chariot of war. Men have passed along that road into battle, their
hearts singing with the thrill of great deeds standing before, and
along it have returned from the front pale, silent forms, the Angel of
Death their escort--or have returned no more.
I have met them going into action along that road, in the blazing heat
of noonday, tramping steadily in the thick dust of the footpath lining
the _pavé_, tunics unbuttoned, sweat streaming down their begrimed
faces. I have seen them returning, lying very still in the motor
ambulances, with the stolid philosophy of wounded men, or else stifling
in the ghastly grip of the asphyxiating gas.
Not even 17-inch shells blindly dropped at arbitrary intervals will
permanently separate the Fleming from his home. Therefore, as soon as
the German bombardment of Ypres slackened, the refugees came streaming
back to find a great slice cut out of the tower of the Cloth Hall, the
tower and roof of St. Martin’s irreparably damaged, and many houses in
different quarters of the town considerably battered.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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