A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
History
A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898
Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
Railroad travel -- United States; United States -- Description and travel
It was a merry party that rattled out of San Jose and looked down on
the orchards on either hand as we whirled by. Our ascent was gradual at
first, but soon the magnificent, winding roadway, which cost Santa
Clara County nearly $100,000 to construct, took us up, and up, ever
extending our view, and giving us fresh vistas of surprise, as we
dashed by curves and grades which made the nervous among us more
nervous still. But there was little to fear with such good drivers and
well-trained animals. They knew their business, and were as careful of
themselves as if we were not in existence. The ever-increasing panorama
of the mountains was full of interest. The great, swelling foothills
were yielding and soft-looking in their brown outline, dotted over by
huge, woolly-looking, dark green live-oaks and other trees. The whole
effect was like a gigantic piece of old Flemish tapestry. If some giant
horsemen with winding horns and bounding dogs of like vast scale, and a
stag with antlers touching the mountain-tops, and a castle like
Walhalla were in our vision, the thing would have been the ancient
tapestry, indeed, in true Californian proportions. It was all beautiful
as it was, the mossy brown of the mountains, and the dark green of the
trees, and over all a cloudless sky, and in our lungs the clear, pure
air, full of elation and vigorous life.
Of course in such a mountain drive we changed horses frequently, and
at Smith Creek we made a long halt for supper. It seemed that that
much-desired meal would never arrive, and the fear that we would miss
the sunset view from the summit, added to our impatience. It so
happened that there was a rush of visitors that day, and we had to wait
our turn while the limited domestic force in this isolated spot,
renewed their labors in cooking and serving another meal.
The perfect imperturbability of our host was a thing to admire. No
amount of muttered discontent moved him a particle. He did not show
impatience even, when we lined up at the dining-room door; by this
action, and the rush which it intimated, suggesting that we felt he
might come some game upon us, and let some more favored ones in first.
When we did make the rush, and saw the well-filled tables, and saw also
the patient wife and daughter, neither of them over-robust, who had to
do all the work, no "help" wishing to stay up there, we almost felt
ashamed of ourselves for our grumbling.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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