The voyagers spoke from time to time of some peculiarity of the villas
that succeeded each other along the canal. Don Ippolito knew a few
of them, the gondoliers knew others; but after all, their names were
nothing. These haunts of old-time splendor and idleness weary of
themselves, and unable to escape, are sadder than anything in Venice,
and they belonged, as far as the Americans were concerned, to a world as
strange as any to which they should go in another life,--the world of
a faded fashion and an alien history. Some of the villas were kept in a
sort of repair; some were even maintained in the state of old; but the
most showed marks of greater or less decay, and here and there one was
falling to ruin. They had gardens about them, tangled and wild-grown;
a population of decrepit statues in the rococo taste strolled in their
walks or simpered from their gates. Two or three houses seemed to be
occupied; the rest stood empty, each
“Close latticed to the brooding heat,
And silent in its dusty vines.”
The pleasure-party had no fixed plan for the day further than to ascend
the canal, and by and by take a carriage at some convenient village and
drive to the famous Villa Pisani at Strà.
“These houses are very well,” said Don Ippolito, who had visited the
villa once, and with whom it had remained a memory almost as signal as
that night in Padua when he wore civil dress, “but it is at Strà you
see something really worthy of the royal splendor of the patricians of
Venice. Royal? The villa is now one of the palaces of the ex-Emperor of
Austria, who does not find it less imperial than his other palaces.” Don
Ippolito had celebrated the villa at Strà in this strain ever since
they had spoken of going up the Brenta: now it was the magnificent
conservatories and orangeries that he sang, now the vast garden with
its statued walks between rows of clipt cedars and firs, now the stables
with their stalls for numberless horses, now the palace itself with its
frescoed halls and treasures of art and vertu. His enthusiasm for the
villa at Strà had become an amiable jest with the Americans. Ferris
laughed at his fresh outburst he declared himself tired of the gondola,
and he asked Florida to disembark with him and walk under the trees of
a pleasant street running on one side between the villas and the canal.
“We are going to find something much grander than the Villa Pisani,” he
boasted, with a look at Don Ippolito.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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