Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
Before this practice had become general, a young knight commenced
his knightly career with a perfectly plain (argent) shield, and he
_achieved_ or won the right to bear devices upon it; hence the arms
which were displayed on it were called his _achievements_. The whole
surface of the shield was called “the field” because he performed his
deeds, recorded on the shield, on the “field of battle.”
Sometimes a knight adopted arms representing his name--_e.g._, the arms
of Lucy were “three luce or pike”; the family of Colthurst had “a
colt” as crest. These were called “canting arms,” and were obviously
not granted for any feat of daring. Symbolism played a prominent part
in the selection of arms and crests, for kings and leaders displayed
on their shields lions and eagles--the emblems of courage and power
and kingly authority. The castle was an emblem of stability, and this
device was also granted to knights who successfully defended or reduced
a castle.
The followers of knights and nobles adopted the habit of wearing
a device called a _badge_, taken from the arms of their lord, and
they wore costumes of the chief colours of his shield. These were
called liveries, and from this is derived the modern custom of the
liveries of men-servants. Most famous of these liveries were the
Plantagenets--scarlet and white; the Lancastrians--blue and white; the
Yorkists--blue and crimson; the Tudors--white and green. The common
people, at the time when heraldry was most generally practised, were
quite illiterate, but everyone could read and understand the devices of
heraldry.
Among the most famous badges worn by retainers were the _Planta
genista_, or broom plant of the Plantagenets, and the roses, red and
white, of the Lancastrians and Yorkists. The Tudor family fittingly
adopted as a badge a double rose, consisting of a white rose within a
red one, to signify the union of the two great families. Village inns
were named after a prominent device borne upon the shield of the local
lord of the manor, and in this way we get such names as the Red Lion,
the Blue Boar, the White Hart, the Rose and Crown, etc.
Many knights were spoken of by their badges--_e.g._, Henry Tudor speaks
to his followers of “the wretched, bloody, and usurping boar,” meaning
Richard III., one of whose badges was the boar.
The surcoat, or sleeveless coat, was adopted, worn over the armour, to
lessen the discomfort caused by the sun’s rays striking directly on the
armour. It became a magnificent garment of velvet or silk, elaborately
embroidered with the armorial bearings in silk and gold (hence the
origin of the word “coat-of-arms”).
This garment still survives in the Tabard of the Royal Heralds, on
which are embroidered the arms of the sovereign.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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