A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
The system of cultivation prevailing in the French vineyards at this
epoch must have been peculiar, since the staple agricultural authority
of the day states that, to have an abundant crop and good wine, all
that was necessary was for the vine-dresser to wear a garland of ivy,
and for crushed acorns and ground vetches to be put in the hole at
the time of planting the vine-shoots; that, moreover, grapes without
stones could be obtained by taking out the pith of the young plant,
and wrapping the end in wet paper, or sticking it in an onion when
planting; that to get grapes in spring a vine-shoot should be grafted
on a cherry-tree; and that wine could be made purgative by watering
the roots of the vine with a laxative, or inserting some in a cleft
branch.[59]
[Illustration:
Church of St. Jacques. The Cathedral. Mont de la Pompelle.
Church of St. Remi.
Tower of St. Victor. Porte de Vesle. Porte de Dieu Lumière.
Porte de Flèchambault.
THE CITY OF REIMS IN 1635
(From an engraving of the period).]
In the seventeenth century the still wine of the province of
Champagne was destined, like the setting sun, to gleam with well-nigh
unparalleled radiance up to the moment of its almost total eclipse.
Continual care and untiring industry had resulted in the production
of a wine which seems to have been renowned beyond all others for a
delicate yet well-developed flavour peculiarly its own, but of which
the wonderful revolution effected by the invention of sparkling wine
has left but few traces. In 1604 the yield was so abundant that the
vintagers were at their wits' end for vessels to contain their wine;
but three years later so poor a vintage took place as had not been
known within the memory of man. During the winter the cold was so
intense that wine froze not only in the cellars, but at table close to
the fire, and by the ensuing spring it had grown so scarce that the
veriest rubbish fetched 80 livres the queue at Reims.[60] In 1610, at
the banquet following the coronation of Louis XIII., the only wine
served was that of Reims, at 175 livres, or about 7_l._, the queue; and
the future _raffinés_ of the Place Royale who assisted at that ceremony
were by no means the men to forget or neglect an approved vintage
after once tasting it. Champagne, it has been said, was crowned at the
same time with the king, and of the two made a better monarch. Five
years later a complaint, addressed to the king on the subject of the
_fermiers des aides_ trying to levy duties on goods sold at the fairs,
asserted it was notorious that the chief commerce of Reims consisted
of wines. According to the police ordinances of 1627, the price of
these was fixed three times a year, namely, at Martinmas, Mid-Lent, and
Midsummer; and tavern-keepers were bound to have a tablet inscribed
with the regulation price fixed outside their houses, and were not
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