A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
Here we have ample proof of the popularity of the wines of the
Champagne, a popularity erroneously said to be due in some measure
to the fact that both the Chancellor le Tellier, father of Louvois,
and Colbert, the energetic comptroller-general of the state finances,
and son of a wool-merchant of Reims, possessed large vineyards in
the province.[70] Lafontaine, who was born in the neighbourhood,
declared his preference for Reims above all cities, on account of the
Sainte Ampoule, its good wine, and the abundance of other charming
objects;[71] and Boileau, writing in 1674, depicts an ignorant
churchman, whose library consisted of a score of well-filled hogsheads,
as being fully aware of the particular vineyard at Reims over which
the community he belonged to held a mortgage.[72] James II. of England
was particularly partial to the wine of the Champagne. When the
quinquennial assembly of the clergy was held in 1700, at the Château of
St. Germain-en-Laye, where he was residing, Charles Maurice le Tellier,
brother to Louvois and Archbishop of Reims, who presided, 'kept a grand
table, and had some Champagne wine that was highly praised. The King
of England, who rarely drank any other, heard of it, and sent to ask
some of the archbishop, who sent him six bottles. Some time afterwards
the king, who found the wine very good, sent to beg him to send some
more. The archbishop, more avaricious of his wine than of his money,
answered curtly that his wine was not mad, and therefore did not run
about the streets, and did not send him any.'[73] Du Chesne, who,
when Fagon became medical attendant to Louis XIV., succeeded him as
physician to the 'fils de France,' and who died at Versailles in 1707,
aged ninety-one, in perfect health, ascribed his longevity to his habit
of eating a salad every night at supper, and drinking only Champagne, a
_régime_ which he recommended to all.[74]
The wine was nevertheless the indirect cause of the death of the poet
Santeuil, who, although a canon of St. Victor, was very much fonder
of Champagne and of sundry other good things than he ought to have
been. A wit and a _bon vivant_, he was a great favourite of the Duc de
Bourbon, son of the Prince de Condé, whom he accompanied in the summer
of 1697 to Dijon. 'One evening at supper the duke amused himself with
plying Santeuil with Champagne, and going on from joke to joke, he
thought it funny to empty his snuff-box into a goblet of wine, and make
Santeuil drink it, in order to see what would happen. He was pretty
soon enlightened. Vomiting and fever ensued, and within forty-eight
hours the unhappy wretch died in the torments of the damned, but
filled with the sentiments of great penitence, with which he received
the sacraments and edified the company, who, though little given to
be edified, disapproved of _such a cruel experiment_.'[75] Of course
nothing was done, or even said, to the duke.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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