A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second EditionRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second Edition
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
In the Waal below, two or three vessels bore the Emperor's flag, and
were laden, as it was said, with some of his _regalia_ from Flanders.
Near them, several bilanders, the decks of which were covered with
awnings, had attracted spectators to the opposite bank, for to that
side only they were open; and the company in all were objects of
curiosity to the Dutch, being no less than the sisterhood of several
Flemish convents, in their proper dresses, and under the care of their
respective abbesses. These ladies had been thus situated, for several
days and nights, which they had passed on board their vessels. They
were attended by their usual servants, and remained together, without
going on shore, being in expectation, as we were told, of invitations
to suitable residences in Germany; but it was then reported at
Nimeguen, that Prince Cobourg was re-advancing to Brussels, and these
societies had probably their misfortunes increased by the artifices
of a political rumour. We could not learn, as we wished, that they
had brought away many effects. Their plate it was needless to enquire
about; the contributions of the preceding spring had no doubt swallowed
up that. Having dismissed our Cologne watermen, we embarked upon the
Waal, the next day, in a public boat for Rotterdam; a neat schuyt,
well equipped and navigated, in which, for a few florins, you have the
use of the cabin. Our voyage, from the want of wind, was slow enough
to shew as much as could be seen of the Waal; which, at Nimeguen,
runs almost constantly downward, but is soon met by the tide, and
overcome, or, at least, resisted by it. The breadth, which varies but
little above Bommel, is, to our recollection, not less than that of the
Thames, at Fulham; the depth, during the beginning of the same space,
is probably considerable, in the stream, for, even upon the shore, our
dextrous old steersman found water enough to sweep the rushy bank at
almost every tack, with a boat, drawing about five feet. The signs of
activity in commerce are astonishing. A small hamlet, one cannot call
any place in Holland contemptible, or miserable, a hamlet of a dozen
houses has two or three vessels, of twenty tons each; a village has a
herring boat for almost every house, and a trading vessel for Rotterdam
two or three times a week. Heavy, high rigged vessels, scarcely
breasting the stream, and fit only for river voyages, we frequently
met; many of them carrying coals for the nearer part of Germany, such
as we saw on the banks between Rees and Nimeguen, and, with much
pleasure, recognized for symptoms of neighbourhood to England.
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