Nor, in his subsequent capacity as deckhand, did he redeem in our eyes
the high qualities of seamanship which we had anticipated from him.
Our tour took us this time through the Menai Straits, _via_ Carnarvon
and the Welsh coast, down the Irish Channel to Milford Haven. In the
region of very heavy tides and dangerous rocks near the south Welsh
coast, we doubled our watch at night. One night the wind fell very
light, and we had stood close inshore in order to pass inside the
Bishop Rocks. The wind died out at that very moment, and the heavy
current driving us down on the rocky islands threatened prematurely to
terminate our cruise. The cook was asleep, as usual when called, and
at last aroused to the nature of the alarm, was found leaning forward
over the ship's bows with a lighted candle. When asked what he was
doing, he explained, "Why, looking for those bishops, of course."
No holiday anywhere could be better sport than those cruises. There
was responsibility, yet rest, mutual dependence, and a charming,
unconventional way of getting acquainted with one's own country. We
visited Carnarvon, Harlech, and other castles, lost our boat in a
breeze of wind off Dynllyn, climbed Snowden from Pwllheli Harbour, and
visited a dozen little out-of-the-world harbours that one would
otherwise never see. Fishing and shooting for the pot, bathing and
rowing, and every kind of healthy out-of-doors pleasure was indulged
in along the road of travel. Moreover, it was all made to cost just as
much or as little as you liked.
Another amusing memory which still remains with me was at one little
seaport where a very small man not over five feet high had married a
woman considerably over six. He was an idle, drunken little rascal,
and I met her one day striding down the street with her intoxicated
little spouse wrapped up in her apron and feebly protesting.
One result of these holidays was that I told my London boys about
them, using one's experiences as illustrations; till suddenly it
struck me that this was shabby Christianity. Why shouldn't these town
cagelings share our holidays? Thirteen accompanied me the following
summer. We had three tents, an old deserted factory, and an
uninhabited gorge by the sea, all to ourselves on the Anglesea coast,
among people who spoke only Welsh. Thus we had all the joys of foreign
travel at very little cost.
Among the many tricks the boys "got away with" was one at the big
railway junction at Bangor, where we had an hour to wait. They
apparently got into the baggage-room and stole a varied assortment of
labels, which they industriously pasted over those on a large pile of
luggage stacked on the platform. The subsequent tangle of destinations
can better be imagined than described.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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