France -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- France
It was not to be looked at in that manner that one had come all the way
from Tours; so that within ten minutes after my arrival I sallied out
into the darkness to form somehow and somewhere a happier relation.
However late in the evening I may arrive at a place, I never go to bed
without my impression. The natural place at Bourges to look for it
seemed to be the cathedral; which, moreover, was the only thing that
could account for my presence _dans cette galère_. I turned out of a
small square in front of the hotel and walked up a narrow, sloping
street paved with big, rough stones and guiltless of a footway. It was a
splendid starlight night; the stillness of a sleeping _ville de
province_ was over everything; I had the whole place to myself. I turned
to my right, at the top of the street, where presently a short, vague
lane brought me into sight of the cathedral. I approached it obliquely,
from behind; it loomed up in the darkness above me enormous and sublime.
It stands on the top of the large but not lofty eminence over which
Bourges is scattered--a very good position as French cathedrals go, for
they are not all so nobly situated as Chartres and Laon. On the side on
which I approached it (the south) it is tolerably well exposed, though
the precinct is shabby; in front, it is rather too much shut in. These
defects, however, it makes up for on the north side and behind, where it
presents itself in the most admirable manner to the garden of the
Archevêché, which has been arranged as a public walk, with the usual
formal alleys of the _jardin français_. I must add that I appreciated
these points only on the following day. As I stood there in the light of
the stars, many of which had an autumnal sharpness, while others were
shooting over the heavens, the huge, rugged vessel of the church
overhung me in very much the same way as the black hull of a ship at sea
would overhang a solitary swimmer. It seemed colossal, stupendous, a
dark leviathan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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