A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the NigerLyon, G. F. (George Francis)
History
A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the Niger
Lyon, G. F. (George Francis)
Fezzan (Libya) -- Description and travel; Tripolitania -- Description and travel
April 30th.—Broke up our encampment at 7 A.M. and proceeded for
two hours over the hills, whence we descended a fine pass to a plain,
on which stands the town of Sebha; the singular appearance of which,
from the heights, was very picturesque. It is surrounded by groves
of palms, while the rest of the plain is a dreary desert. At 10
we arrived at the town, which rises like a little amphitheatre:
it is mud walled, and has a high square white-washed minaret to
its principal Mosque. All the male population came out to salute
the Sultan; and I observed that at this place the change of colour
began, the people here being Mulattoes. I remarked too, that the
greater part of their muskets had match-locks, and that not above
one in five went off. The houses appear in neat order, but very
low; and the walls are built in an irregular, but strong manner,
of mud. Mr. Ritchie made the latitude of Sebha 27° 3′ 8″ north.
May 1st.—The Sultan, after many disputes respecting money matters,
set off with us at 5.50. P.M. the camels having departed some
hours sooner. Our road, after passing the palms, was still, as it
had lately been, over a gravelly plain, having at intervals large
black detached stones lying on it. At midnight the horsemen stopped,
and at 1 A.M. the camels came up. We lay this night on a low plain,
amongst some small sand hills, which were quite barren. As the camels
arrived so late, there was great confusion in unloading them; and
the men were too much occupied to pay any attention to the ladies
in the Shiblias. Fatma, finding no helping hand near to assist her,
boldly attempted to uncoach herself; but the exertion, owing to her
excessive fat, caused her to fall, or rather roll off the camel,
to the great amusement of the Arabs.
May 2nd.—At 6.45. proceeded on our way, and at 12 came into a
wadey, having many palm bushes thickly growing about. A heavy sand
wind was blowing, and the sun was quite obscured by it. My horse,
taking fright at some object which he saw but indistinctly,
reared up, and fell back with me under him. Happily, I only
received a severe contusion on the arm. At 1.30. P.M. we arrived
at Ghroodwa, غرودوه, a miserable collection of mud huts,
containing about fifty people, who appeared a ragged drunken set,
as the immense number of tapped palm trees testified. From the ruins
of some large mud edifices, this place seems to have once been of
more importance. The palms, which extend for ten or fifteen miles
east and west, are the property of the Sultan, and appear in worse
condition than any we have seen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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