A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the NigerLyon, G. F. (George Francis)
History
A narrative of travels in northern Africa in the years 1818, 19, and 20; accompanied by geographical notices of Soudan and of the course of the Niger
Lyon, G. F. (George Francis)
Fezzan (Libya) -- Description and travel; Tripolitania -- Description and travel
Our travelling pace was a walk of the horses, which generally got
considerably in advance of the camels. At noon, or about that time,
if we could find a tree, we stopped under it; if not, we sat under
the shadow of our horses. The Sultan was grand victualler, and
generally produced a bag of bread or dates, or the remains of his
dinner of the day before. Each one then had a portion, not sufficient
to be called a dinner, but to break his fast; and after eating, and
drinking a few mouthfuls of water, stretched himself out, and slept
until the camels came up: the party then mounted and rode on. These
rests were very refreshing to the men and horses; but the loaded
camels never made any stop, neither did the poor Negroes, who, with
their wives and even little children, plodded on the whole day, over
a burning soil, sometimes for twenty, and often for sixteen hours,
whenever want of water made a forced march necessary. Several of
the smallest of the black children, though probably not more than
four or five years of age, walked for many hours with great strength
in the early part of the day, having but a few rags to cover them,
and when unable to proceed further, were put on the camels for the
remainder of the day. One of our party, a poor old man, totally
blind, arrived safe at Morzouk from Tripoli. He had walked all the
way over the rocks and plains, led by his wife, and was kept alive
by the hope of once more hearing the voices of his countrymen.
When we stopped for the night, it was generally so contrived that we
should lie in some spot where bushes might be found for the camels
to browse upon; but even though there might be no wood or herbage,
a wadey was always preferred, as more sheltered. Our tents were
pitched, if the ground was sufficiently soft to admit the pegs,
and our bales and chests so placed, as to form a shelter for those
who had no tents; affording a bulwark against the wind and sand. The
little resistance offered by any intervening objects to the winds
of the desert, renders them very powerful, and the stillness of
the night, in blowing weather, is particularly awful. The tents
are no sooner pitched, than the camels are turned out to feed on
the thin and scattered bushes, and parties go to collect wood; the
horses are hobbled, watered from the skins, and then fed. Should
there be no wood, camels’ dung is an excellent substitute, as it
burns like peat, and forms a very glowing fire. A hole is dug in
the ground, and three stones so placed, as to support the little
copper pot. Cusscussou or Bazeen is then prepared. The Sultanesses
are no contemptible cooks, and they made every evening an excellent
supper for their master. When no fire is to be had, Zumeeta is
prepared with water and oil, and so eaten. We usually managed,
in an evening, to make a little coffee, of which Mukni always came
and partook; and as soon as he left the tent, his slaves and people
generally succeeded him, wishing also to taste some. If we had time,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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