A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purityDeite, C. (Carl)
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A practical treatise on the manufacture of perfumery : $b comprising directions for making all kinds of perfumes, sachet powders, fumigating materials, dentrifices, cosmetics, etc., etc., with a full account of the volatile oils, balsams, resins, and other natural and artificial perfume-substances, including the manufacture of fruit ethers, and tests of their purity
Deite, C. (Carl)
Cosmetics; Perfumes; Perfumes industry
_Almond oil_ (_bitter_) (_oleum amygdalæ amaræ_) is obtained by
submitting bitter almond cake (left after the expression of the fixed
oil from bitter almonds) to distillation with water. The volatile
oil does not exist ready formed in the bitter almond, nor in the
almond cake, but results from the decomposition of a glucoside called
"amygdalin," contained in the cake, under the influence of emulsin and
water, the emulsin acting as a ferment, into benzylic aldehyde, glucose
and prussic acid. The almond tree grows wild, but is also cultivated
in Southern Europe, Africa, Barbary, Palestine and Syria. The bitter
almonds brought from Barbary are considered the best. Besides, in
almonds, amygdalin occurs in various other plants; for instance, in
the leaves of the cherry laurel, the leaves and kernels of the peach,
the kernels of the black cherry and other varieties of _prunus_
and _amygdalus_, they all yielding, after maceration with water, a
distillate containing prussic acid and oil of bitter almonds.
Instead of the comparatively expensive bitter almonds, peach kernels
freed from their hard shells are extensively used in the fabrication
of oil of bitter almonds. The oil is prepared as follows: The press
cakes of bitter almonds or peach kernels are ground and soaked about
twenty-four hours in twice their weight of water to which one-third
their weight of salt has been added. The whole is then submitted to
distillation. The temperature of the water should not exceed 113° to
122° F. The emulsin contained in the almonds possesses only within
certain limits of temperature the power of decomposing amygdalin,
and, if heated to 176° F., becomes inoperative. Hence, if the almond
paste is quickly heated to boiling, the emulsin becomes inoperative
before all the amygdalin is decomposed, and a portion of it being
consequently lost, the yield is insufficient. The distillation of the
almond paste is effected in a current of steam.
A portion of the prussic acid formed by the decomposition of the
amygdalin adheres tenaciously to the oil. This content of prussic acid
makes the oil of bitter almonds exceedingly poisonous, while in itself
it is non-poisonous. It can be freed from the prussic acid by shaking
with ferrous sulphate (blue vitriol) solution. By then distilling
over burnt lime the originally yellow or yellowish oil is obtained
colorless. It is then thinly fluid, of a peculiar agreeable odor and
strongly nutty taste. Its specific gravity is 1.043 at 59° F., but
varies a little with age. It boils at 356° F., and dissolves in 13
parts of water, but more readily in alcohol and ether. In the air it is
rapidly converted into benzoic acid by the absorption of oxygen. It has
to be carefully protected from air and light and kept in well-closed
bottles in a dark place. The crude oil, containing from 2 to 5 per
cent. prussic acid, has generally a yellowish color.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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