Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
"But then, you observe, sea-birds, and misty mountains, and rain, and
silence hold their tongues, and take no notice of peccadilloes.
Whatever may be their faults, they are not scandal-mongers. The
doings in Skye do not cause blushes in London. The man dies here as
silently as a crow; it is only a black-bordered letter, addressed in
a strange hand, that tells the news; and the black-bordered epistle
can be thrown into the fire--if the poor mother does not clutch at it
and put it away--and no one be a bit the wiser. It is sometimes to
the advantage of his friends that a man should go into the other
world by the loneliest and most sequestered path."
So talking, we passed the farm-house, which, with the exception of a
red-headed damsel, who thrust her head out of a barn to stare, seemed
utterly deserted, and bent our steps towards the shore of the Loch.
Rough grass bordered a crescent of yellow sand, and on the rough
grass a boat lay on its side, its pitchy seams blistering in the
early sunshine. Of this boat we immediately took possession, dragged
it down to the sea margin, got in our guns and provisions, tumbled in
stones for ballast, procured oars, and pushed of. We had to round
the great hill which, from the other side of the valley, we had seen
breaking down into the sea; and as we sailed and looked up, sheep
were feeding on the green shelves, and every now and again a white
smoke of sea-birds burst out dangerously from the black precipices.
Slowly rounding the rocky buttress, which on stormy days the Atlantic
fillips with its spray, another headland, darker still and drearier,
drew slowly out to sea, and in a quarter of an hour we had passed
from the main ocean into Loch Scavaig, and every pull of the oars
revealed another ridge of the Cuchullins. Between these mountain
ramparts we sailed, silent as a boatful of souls being conveyed to
some Norse hades. [Sidenote: Lock Coruisk.] The Cuchullins were
entirely visible now; and the sight midway up Loch Scavaig is more
impressive even than when you stand on the ruined shore of Loch
Coruisk itself--for the reason, perhaps, that, sailing midway, the
mountain forms have a startling unexpectedness, while by the time you
have pulled the whole way up, you have had time to master them to
some extent, and familiarity has begun to dull the impression. In
half an hour or so we disembarked on a rude platform of rock, and
stepped out on the very spot on which, according to Sir Walter, the
Bruce landed:
"Where a wild stream with headlong shock
Comes brawling down a bed of rock
To mingle with the main."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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