Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Picking your steps carefully over huge boulder and slippery stone,
you come upon the most savage scene of desolation in Britain.
Conceive a large lake filled with dark green water, girt with torn
and shattered precipices; the bases of which are strewn with ruin
since an earthquake passed that way, and whose summits jag the sky
with grisly splinter and peak. There is no motion here save the
white vapour steaming from the abyss. The utter silence weighs like
a burden upon you: you feel an intruder in the place. The hills seem
to possess some secret; to brood over some unutterable idea which you
can never know. You cannot feel comfortable at Loch Coruisk, and the
discomfort arises in a great degree from the feeling that you are
outside of everything--that the thunder-splitten peaks have a life
with which you cannot intermeddle. The dumb monsters sadden and
perplex. Standing there, you are impressed with the idea that the
mountains are silent because they are listening so intently. And the
mountains are listening, else why do they echo our voices in such a
wonderful way? Shout here like an Achilles in the trenches. Listen!
The hill opposite takes up your words, and repeats them one after
another, and curiously tries them over with the gravity of a raven.
Immediately after, you hear a multitude of skyey voices.
"Methinks that there are spirits among the peaks."
How strangely the clear strong tones are repeated by these granite
precipices! Who could conceive that Horror had so sweet a voice!
Fainter and more musical they grow; fainter, sweeter, and more
remote, until at last they come on your ear as if from the blank of
the sky itself. M'Ian fired his gun, and it reverberated into a
whole battle of Waterloo. We kept the hills busy with shouts and the
firing of guns, and then M'Ian led us to a convenient place for
lunching. As we trudge along something lifts itself off a rock--'tis
an eagle. See how grandly the noble creature soars away. What sweep
of wings! What a lord of the air! And if you cast up your eyes you
will see his brother hanging like a speck beneath the sun. Under
M'Ian's guidance, we reached the lunching-place, unpacked our basket,
devoured our bread and cold mutton, drank our bottled beer, and then
lighted our pipes and smoked--in the strangest presence. Thereafter
we bundled up our things, shouldered our guns, and marched in the
track of ancient Earthquake towards our boat. Embarked once again,
and sailing between the rocky portals of Loch Scavaig, I said, "I
would not spend a day in that solitude for the world. I should go
mad before evening."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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