Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
To me, I confess, of all Hebridean associations, Dr Johnson's visit
is the pleasantest. How the doctor ever got there is a matter for
perpetual wonder. He liked books, good cheer, club-life, the roar of
Fleet Street, good talk, witty companions. One cannot imagine what
attractions the rainy and surge-beaten islands possessed for the
author of the "Vanity of Human Wishes." Wordsworth had not yet made
fashionable a love for mountain and lake, and the shapes of changing
cloud. Scott had not yet thrown the glamour of romance over the
northern land, from the Sark to the Fitful Head. Sidenote: Dr
Johnson in Skye.] For fine scenery Johnson did not care one rush.
When Boswell in the fulness of his delight pointed out "an immense
mountain," the doctor sincerely sneered, "an immense protuberance."
He only cared for mountains in books, and even in books he did not
care for them much. The rain-cloud, which would put Mr Ruskin into
ecstasies, could only suggest to the moralist the urgent necessity of
an umbrella or a coach. Johnson loved his ease; and a visit to the
Western island, was in his day a serious matter--about as serious as
a visit to Kamtschatka would be in ours. In his wanderings he was
exposed to rain and wind, indifferent cookery, tempestuous seas, and
the conversation of persons who were neither witty nor learned--who
were neither polished like Beauclerk, nor amusing like Goldsmith--and
who laughed at epigram as Leviathan laughs at the shaking of the
spear. I protest, when I think of the burly doctor travelling in
these regions, voluntarily resigning for a while all London delights,
I admire him as a very hero. Boswell commemorates certain outbreaks
of petulance and spleen; but, on the whole, the great man seems to
have been pleased with his adventure. Johnson found in his
wanderings beautiful and high-bred women, well-mannered and
cultivated men--and it is more than probable that, if he were
returning to the islands to-day, he would not find those admirable
human qualities in greater abundance. What puzzles me most is the
courage with which the philosopher encountered the sea. I have, in a
considerable steamer more than once, shivered at the heavy surge
breaking on Ardnamurchan; and yet the doctor passed the place in an
open boat on his way to Mull, "lying down below in philosophical
tranquillity, with a greyhound at his back to keep him warm," while
poor Bozzy remained in the rain above, clinging for dear life to a
rope which, a sailor gave him to hold, quieting his insurgent stomach
as best he could with pious considerations, and sadly disturbed when
a bigger wave than usual came shouldering onward, making the boat
reel, with the objections which had been taken to a particular
providence--objections which Dr Hawkesworth had lately revived in his
preface to "Voyages to the South Seas." Boswell's journal of the
tour is delicious reading; full of amusing egotism; unconsciously
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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