Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
hollow like a witch's tooth. The story I have told you is devoutly
believed by all the fishermen, herdsmen, and milkmaids in the
neighbourhood. I think Mr Maciver, the clergyman at Kilmuir, is the
only person in the neighbourhood who has no faith in it." This ghost
story the photographer capped by another, and when that was finished
we went to bed.
[Sidenote: Flora Macdonald's grave.]
Next morning we went out to inspect the old castle, and found it a
mere shell. Compared with its appearance the night before, when it
stood in relief against the red sky, it was strangely unimpressive; a
fragment of a tower and a portion of flanking wall stood erect; there
were traces of building down on the slope near the sea, but all the
rest was a mere rubble of fallen masonry. It had been despoiled in
every way; the elements had worn and battered it, the people of the
district had for years back made it a quarry, and built out of it
dwellings, out-houses, and dikes--making the past serve the purposes
of the present. Sheep destined for the London market were cropping
the herbage around its base--suggesting curious comparisons, and
bringing into keener contrast antiquity and to-day. While we were
loitering about the ruins the photographer came up, and under his
guidance we went to visit Kilmuir churchyard, in which Flora
Macdonald rests. We went along the stony road down which we had
driven the night previously--the cliffs lately so rosy, gray enough
now, and the seethe of the fresh sea amongst the boulders and shingle
beneath rather exhilarating than otherwise. After a walk of about a
couple of miles we left the road, climbed up a grassy ascent, and
found the churchyard there, enclosed by a low stone wall. Everything
was in hideous disrepair. The gate was open, the tomb-stones were
broken and defaced, and above the grave of the heroine nettles were
growing more luxuriously than any crop I had yet had the good fortune
to behold in the island. Skye has only one historical grave to
dress--and she leaves it so. On expressing our surprise to the
photographer, he told us that a London sculptor passing that way, and
whose heart burned within him at the sight, had offered at several
dinner-tables in the district to execute a bronze medallion of the
famous lady, gratis, provided his guests would undertake to have it
properly placed, and to a have fitting inscription carved upon the
pedestal. "The proposal was made, I know," said the photographer,
"for the sculptor told me about it himself. His proposal has not
been taken up, nor is it likely to be taken up now. The country
which treats the grave of a heroine after that fashion is not worthy
to have a heroine. Still,"--he went eyeing the place critically,
with his head a little to one side--"it makes a picturesque
photograph as it stands--perhaps better than if it were neat and
tidy." We plucked a nettle from the grave and then returned to
Duntulm to breakfast.
[Sidenote: Quirang.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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