Skye, Island of (Scotland) -- Description and travel
As we drove slowly up the glen, my companion said, "That old
gentleman is to my mind worth Blaavin, Coruisk, Glen Sligachan, and
all the rest of it. In his own way he is just as picturesque and
strange as they are. When he goes, the island will have lost one of
its peculiar charms."
"He is a thorough Islesman," said I; "and for him Blaavin forms as
appropriate a background as the desert for the Arab, or the prairie
for the Pawnee Indian. When he dies it will be like the dying of the
last eagle. He is about the end of the old stock. The younger
generation of Skyemen will never be like their fathers. They have
more general information than their elders, they have fewer
prejudices, they are more amenable to advice, much less stubborn and
self-willed--but they are by comparison characterless. In a few
years, when they will have the island in their own hands, better
sheep will be produced I have no doubt, finer qualities of wool will
be sent south, grand hotels will be erected here and there--but for
all that Skye will have become tame: it will have lost that
unpurchaseable something--human character; and will resemble Blaavin
shorn of its mist-wreaths."
[Sidenote: Armadale Castle.]
When we reached the top of the glen, and dropped down on the
Parliamentary Road near the lake of water lilies, we held our way to
the right, toward the point of Sleat. We passed the farm of Knock,
the white outhouses, the church and school-house, the old castle on
the shore, and driving along, we could pleasantly depasture our eyes
on the cultivated ground, with a picturesque hut perched here and
there; the towering masses of the Knoydart hills and the Sound of
Sleat between. Sleat is the best wooded, the sunniest, and most
carefully cultivated portion of the island; and passing along the
road the traveller is struck with signs of blithe industry and
contentment. As you draw near Armadale Castle you can hardly believe
that you are in Skye at all. The hedges are as trim as English
hedges, the larch plantations which cover the faces of the low hills
that look towards the sea are not to be surpassed by any larch
plantations in the country. The Armadale home farm is a model of
neatness, the Armadale porter-lodges are neat and white; and when,
through openings of really noble trees, you obtain a glimpse of the
castle itself, a handsome modern-looking building rising from sweeps
of closely-shaven lawn, you find it hard to believe that you are
within a few miles of the moory desolation that stretches between
Isle Oronsay and Broadford. Great lords and great seats, independent
of the food they provide the imagination, are of the highest
practical uses to a country. From far Duntulm Macdonald has come
here and settled, and around him to their very tops the stony hills
laugh in green. Great is the power of gold. Drop a sovereign into
the hat of the mendicant seated by the wayside and into his face you
bring a pleasant light.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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