A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The _sala_, or traveller’s rest-house, we found occupied by the Rev.
David Webster, who with his wife and pretty little golden-haired
daughter was on his way to Zimmé by a route to the south of that we
intended taking. Mr Webster is a missionary of the American Baptist
Mission, which together with the American Presbyterian Mission has been
highly successful in civilising and converting the Karens in Burmah. He
was now on his way to the Siamese Shan States, as he had heard from some
of his converts that there were many Karens in Central Indo-China.
In Burmah he had only been able to hire elephants to carry them as far
as the frontier, and was therefore at the mercy of the Siamese official
in charge of the guard. He had omitted on principle to grease this petty
potentate’s palms, with the result that he had been detained waiting for
thirteen days. Having lost patience, he had endeavoured to hire the
elephants direct from the Karens instead of waiting for the
Jack-in-office to take action, but found the Karens were afraid to let
them on hire to him for fear of rousing their tyrant’s anger, or having
to part with a portion of the hire.
I stopped over the next day to allow the Bombay Burmah party to join us,
which they did in the afternoon. In the morning I unpacked my
photographic apparatus, and took views of the country, guard-station,
and Mr Webster’s party, which included several Karen girls who were
attached to their schools. When unpacking the dry plates, I was dismayed
to find many adhering to the tissue-paper covers, and all of them
spotted by damp. As I opened packet after packet on my journey, I found
them all in the same plight, and before I reached Zimmé ceased
photographing, and sent the views—some fifty in number—that I had taken,
to Mr Klier, the photographer in Rangoon, who had kindly promised to
develop them for me.
In the afternoon a Karen man with his little boy and girl came to visit
our camp. The children were greatly pleased with the bead necklaces
which I gave them. Messrs Bryce and Boss, who had with them ten
elephants and eleven ponies and mules—the latter purchased from the
Chinese caravan which had passed us when halting on the Hlineboay
river—arrived towards dusk, and camped near us.
The Siamese frontier post consists of five buildings, enclosed by a
bamboo stockade. The officer in charge of the Laos or Shan police did
not inquire for our passports, and allowed Mr Bryce’s large
treasure-guard to march by unquestioned. He had no hope of squeezing
anything out of the party, and therefore paid no attention to it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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