A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
After breakfast we entered the defile, and descended from the plateau in
the bed of the Koo Saik Choung, which falls 135 feet in the distance of
a mile in a series of gentle cascades, separated by ice-cold running
pools as clear as crystal; the towering precipices on either side
looming through the trees, with their crests hidden by the dense
foliage, and the natural colonnade formed by the evergreen forest
through which we were passing rendering the air delightfully cool. How
charming it would have been to have breakfasted in this pleasant retreat
among the lichen-covered limestone boulders, mosses, and ferns! Leaving
the defile, we followed the Thoungyeen down-stream past the Siamese
guard-station, which lies on the other bank—the river forming the
frontier—to the ford.
The river at the ford is 250 feet wide from bank to bank, with the
channel reduced to 70 feet by a great shoal of boulders, now uncovered,
stretching from the western bank. The current being swift and the water
chest-deep, some of the men were nearly swept away whilst crossing. The
boys went in up to their hips, and stood trembling, afraid to proceed
farther. I therefore told them to return to the strand, and I would send
elephants from the camp to bring them across.
The bank of the river is about 206 feet above mean sea-level at
Maulmain. After passing the ford, we crossed the Meh Tha Wah, passed the
guard-house, and camped about half a mile off, near the stream and some
rice-fields. As soon as the elephants were unloaded, I sent two back for
the boys; but meanwhile they had found their way to the ferry, and
crossed the river in a boat. The guard-house is 38 miles from Hlineboay.
CHAPTER III.
REV. D. WEBSTER’S PARTY DETAINED—SIAMESE OFFICIALS EXPECT
BRIBES—PHOTOGRAPHIC PLATES ALL SPOILT—VISIT FROM KARENS—JOINED BY
THE B.B. PARTY—SIAMESE POLICE POST—GORGES IN THE THOUNGYEEN AND MEH
NIUM—RAPIDS STOP NAVIGATION—FORESTS AND ELEPHANTS—DWARF RACES—KAMOOK
AND KAMAIT SLAVES HIRED BY OUR FORESTERS—MIGRATION OF LAOS FROM
TONQUIN—THE KHAS OF LUANG PRABANG—SACRIFICES TO DEMONS—DRINKING THE
HEALTH OF STRANGERS—KING OF SIAM ALLOWS SLAVE-HUNTING—MISSIONARIES
REQUIRED IN THE MEH KONG VALLEY—LEAVE THE GUARD-HOUSE—CROSSING THE
WATER-PARTING—WILD TEA—KAREN VILLAGES BUILT DISTANT FROM
ROAD—COUNTRY FORMERLY LACUSTRINE—SHELTER FOR THE NIGHT—HEAVY RAIN—A
SHOWER-BATH IN BED—ELEPHANTS CROSSING STEEP HILLS—WILD ANIMALS—REACH
THE MEH NIUM—KAREN PIGS—REMAINS OF A LAKE-BOTTOM—THE MAING LOONGYEE
PLAIN—EPIDEMIC OF SMALLPOX—VILLAGES TABOOED—ARRIVE AT MAING
LOONGYEE—MOUNG HMOON TAW’S HOUSE—A TIMBER PRINCE AND THE
MONEY-LENDERS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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