A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The following morning a two miles’ march over a hill in a dense mist
brought us to Meh Ka Tone, a good-sized house on the banks of the Meh
Nium. The river is here about 150 feet broad, with banks 12 feet high,
and water 3 feet deep. Meh Ka Tone lies 76 miles from Hlineboay, and 451
feet above sea-level.
The house belonged to a forester who was absent, having left a Kamook
slave in charge. Two Karen pigs, small, hairy, slate-coloured creatures,
with dark bristling manes, were tied up by perpendicular strings under
the house, so that they could neither lie down nor walk until the
strings were slackened. As we had been feeding on tinned meat for the
last two days, some of our fowls having been quietly appropriated by the
Karens, we tried hard to persuade the man to sell us one of the pigs and
a few of the fowls that were scuttling about, but all in vain,—they were
his master’s property, and he dared not part with them at any price
without his consent.
Resuming the march and proceeding up the valley, now and then crossing
hill-spurs and river-bends for the sake of shortness, at the
eighty-third mile we again entered cultivated land, near the deserted
village of Meh Kok, the site of which is now only marked by cocoa-nut
and mango trees. The crests of the main spurs of the ranges of hills on
either side appeared to be three miles distant; but on the west, a
curious parallel range or formation, rising some 500 or 600 feet above
the plain, lies between the main range and the river. On visiting these
hills from Maing Loongyee we found them a perfect maze of equal
elevation, looking like a gigantic Chinese puzzle, composed solely of
friable earth, and rapidly frittering away,—there could be no doubt that
we were looking at the remains of an old lake-bottom.
The plain, which is adorned with a great variety of flowering trees and
shrubs, like the rest of the country we had passed through, containing
much valuable timber besides teak, gradually increased in breadth as we
proceeded, and is a mile and a half wide at Maing Loongyee. Several
Karen and Lawa, and a few Shan, villages are dotted about it, but the
cultivation is insufficient for the wants of the people, most of whom
are engaged in forest operations. Rice has therefore to be imported from
Zimmé.
Many of the villages in the plain were placed under taboo, owing to an
outbreak of smallpox, a disease much dreaded by the hill tribes. The
paths leading to such villages are stopped by a branch of a tree being
thrown across them, and magical formulæ are stuck up in order to keep
the evil spirits who propagate the disease from the village. No stranger
dare enter a village so guarded. Should he do so, and death or illness
subsequently happen, he would be held responsible. Life, or the price of
life, for life, is exacted in such cases.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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