A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The Siamese Shan State of Zimmé at the beginning of the eighteenth
century extended from the Salween to the Meh Kong. It had jurisdiction
over the whole of the States lying in the basins of the upper portions
of the Meh Nam, the Meh Ping, and the Meh Wung, comprising Zimmé, Nan,
Peh, Lapoon, Lakon, and Tern; their governors being appointed by the
King of Zimmé. The disruption of the kingdom resulted from the anarchy
reigning in the middle of the eighteenth century, when Zimmé, then
tributary to the Burmese, threw off its allegiance and became feudatory
to Siam. Zimmé has now hardly a nominal supremacy over Lapoon, Lakon,
and Tern, although the rulers are appointed from the same family; and
Nan and Peh are perfectly independent of it, owing allegiance only to
Siam.
[Illustration:
_An execution._
]
We found the Siamese potentate squatting cross-legged, like a great
apathetic indolent toad, upon a raised section of his covered verandah,
in company with his brother, the head-man of the Siamese frontier post
at Daguinseik. Daguinseik is the ford where the main track from Pahpoon
to Zimmé crosses the Salween. No greeting was accorded us, no approach
to the semblance of courtesy was shown us by these two unmannerly boors,
who, like all low-minded Jacks-in-office, considered arrogance and
incivility necessary in up-holding their dignity.
Dr Cushing, who accompanied me as interpreter on the expedition, was
naturally annoyed at the rudeness and grumpiness of our reception, and
was intentionally brusque in expressing our requirements. These
comprised six fresh elephants to carry us to Muang Haut, or, if
possible, to Zimmé. The governor, who had been up night after night at
the _poay_, or play, which was being given in honour of a youth who was
about to join the priesthood, merely yawned in our faces, and left the
answering to his brother.
We were assured that there would be great difficulty in getting our
elephants, as Mr Bryce’s party required ten, and would have to be served
first as they had arrived the day before us; that the elephants were a
long distance off working in the forests, and could not arrive for three
days at the earliest. I replied that every day was of importance to us,
that there were many elephants dawdling about the place, and that I saw
no necessity for us to be kept waiting. He said that the elephants I had
noticed belonged to the foresters, not to the Karens, and could not be
hired to us. We then departed without either of the human toads rising
from his haunches.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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