A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
The villages which are occupied by the Karen Yain—the wild or timid
Karens—were said to contain as many people as the rest of the villages
put together; but as these villages are temporary erections, only
occupied for a year or two at a time, no accurate account could be given
of them.
I was assured that the average number of people living in a house was
seven; but even allowing only five, there would be upwards of 13,000
people in the fixed villages on my list, and as many more among the wild
Karens. Taking into account the fixed villages not on my list, the gross
population in the basin of the Meh Nium cannot fall far short of 30,000
souls.
The Siamese deputy, on being questioned on the subject, said that he had
no list of the villages or census of the people; but there must be at
least 3000 Zimmé Shans, 4000 Lawas, and 5000 fixed Karens, chiefly of
the Sgau and Pwo and Sho tribes, in the _muang_. He could make no guess
at the number of the Karen Yain; but they were very numerous. His
estimate of the Shans and fixed Karens tallied well with the account
given by the foresters; but the Lawas are twice as numerous as he
thought they were.
The villages of the Sgau and Sho tribes of Karens are found scattered
through the hills far down into the Malay Peninsula. One of their dances
resembles the sword-dance of the Highlanders of Scotland, and is thus
described by a gentleman who was present at it in a Karen village in the
hills behind Petchaburee: Two smooth straight bamboo poles were placed
parallel to each other on the ground, about eight feet apart. Across
these, and at right angles to them, smaller bamboo sticks are laid—two
in a place—so as to form spaces about ten inches wide between each pair
of sticks. The musicians take their seats on the ground, by the sides of
the parallel poles, and each takes an end of the short cross-sticks in
each of his hands. These sticks he first taps together, then shifts them
right and left so as to strike those of his neighbours on each side, to
make a tapping musical noise, all keeping perfect time together.
The dancers, who are dressed in their most fantastic style, with painted
faces, feathers in their turbans, &c., then take their places, and one
after another dance into these spaces and along between the parallel
poles. As they leap up, the sticks pass under their feet, and they must
use their feet so dexterously as not to touch the cross-sticks which are
constantly passing to and fro under them. As many as four or five
dancers would be leaping up and down, across from end to end, at once,
and all keeping perfectly together.
Day after day we tried to inveigle a Lawa into the house, but in vain.
At length Moung Kin succeeded in enticing one there who had come with
some friends on business to the city. We were elated; we had at last got
a real live Lawa—one of the aborigines of the country: what should we
get out of him?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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