Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
And now we are once more in the midst of the palm-woods, threading our
way among the same mounds that we passed in the morning. Presently those
in front strike away from the beaten road across a grassy flat to the
right; and the next moment we are all gathered round the brink of a
muddy pool, in the midst of which lies a shapeless block of blackened
and corroded limestone. This, it seems, is the famous prostrate colossus
of Rameses the Great, which belongs to the British nation, but which the
British government is too economical to remove.[19] So here it lies,
face downward; drowned once a year by the Nile; visible only when the
pools left by the inundation have evaporated, and all the muddy hollows
are dried up. It is one of two which stood at the entrance to the great
Temple of Ptah; and by those who have gone down into the hollow and seen
it from below in the dry season, it is reported of as a noble and very
beautiful specimen of one of the best periods of Egyptian art.
Where, however, is the companion colossus? Where is the temple itself?
Where are the pylons, the obelisk, the avenues of sphinxes? Where, in
short, is Memphis?
The dragoman shrugs his shoulders and points to the barren mounds among
the palms.
They look like gigantic dust-heaps and stand from thirty to forty feet
above the plain. Nothing grows upon them, save here and there a tuft of
stunted palm; and their substance seems to consist chiefly of crumbled
brick, broken potsherds, and fragments of limestone. Some few traces of
brick foundations and an occasional block or two of shaped stone are to
be seen in places low down against the foot of one or two of the mounds;
but one looks in vain for any sign which might indicate the outline of a
boundary wall or the position of a great public building.
And is this all?
No--not quite all. There are some mud-huts yonder, in among the trees;
and in front of one of these we find a number of sculptured
fragments--battered sphinxes, torsos without legs, sitting figures
without heads--in green, black, and red granite. Ranged in an irregular
semicircle on the sward, they seem to sit in forlorn conclave, half
solemn, half ludicrous, with the goats browsing round, and the little
Arab children hiding behind them.
Near this, in another pool, lies another red-granite colossus--not the
fellow to that which we saw first, but a smaller one--also face
downward.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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