A Tour Through South AmericaForrest, A. S. (Archibald Stevenson)
History
A Tour Through South America
Forrest, A. S. (Archibald Stevenson)
South America -- Description and travel
toy-like representation of the Nativity, with small dolls crudely
suggesting the shepherds and the Magi visiting the manger. A great array
of candles are set in front and all around the tawdry show, and all day
long crowds of the poorer classes stand gazing spellbound at the marvel.
All the other churches in the city have some similar exhibition during
Christmas week, and the crowds go from one to another, eager to see all
they can for nothing. The church of La Merced, which stands in the Calle
Real, in what used to be the extreme limit of the city, is built from
the materials gathered at the ruins of the old church of the same name
that stood in the ancient city of Panama. The church stands at a street
corner, and on the left of the main entrance, occupying the corner of
the building, is a small chapel, some sixteen feet square, with a door
from either street. At all times some worshipper is to be found inside
this little sanctuary, for so conveniently situated is it that
passers-by have only to step a few feet out of their way to be within
its walls. Women with great bundles on their heads step in, cross
themselves, mutter a word or two, and are not detained more than a few
seconds by their devotions; whilst the man of business and small urchins
rush through one door and out at the other, to save the turning at the
corner of the street. The oldest church in the city, that of San Felipi
Nevi, has the date “1688” carved on a shield above its entrance, but the
more modern buildings that have sprung up around it almost hide it from
view. Its walls are about five feet in thickness, which doubtless
accounts for it still standing. The cathedral in the Central Plaza, the
largest building in the city, is in a very good state of repair, and is
generally well attended. It has two lofty towers surmounted with conical
domes covered with oyster-shells, which glisten and sparkle in the sun.
The front of the church is richly moulded and faced with flat, fluted,
and engaged columns. In the niches sculptured figures representing the
twelve apostles are placed, while at the top, in the centre, is placed
an effigy of the Virgin. The whole building is painted over with a
disagreeable colour-wash of saffron hue, an act of vandalism that could
only occur in a country that pays little or no regard to the upkeep of
its public buildings. Another instance of the scant attention and regard
for ancient monuments can be seen in the ruins of the once noble church
of St. Dominic. The roof of this large building has long since
disappeared, probably during one of the numerous fires that have played
such havoc in the city. There remains, however, in this church a most
extraordinary specimen of building construction--a large arch of over
sixty feet span, near the principal entrance, has caused much discussion
amongst engineers and architects. It is practically flat, having no
other support than its terminal columns. How it has survived the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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