A View of Society and Manners in France, Switzerland, and Germany, Vol. 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to Some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in France, Switzerland, and Germany, Vol. 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to Some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
The summit of Mole, as we were told, is about 4600 English feet above the
lake of Geneva, at the lower passage of the Rhone, which last is about
1200 feet above the level of the Mediterranean. For these particulars, I
shall take the word of my informer, whatever airs of superiority he may
assume on the discovery.
From Bonneville we proceeded to Cluse, by a road tolerably good, and
highly entertaining on account of the singularity and variety of
landscape to be seen from it. The objects change their appearance every
moment as you advance, for the path is continually winding, to humour the
position of the mountains, and to gain an access between the rocks, which
in some places hang over it in a very threatening manner. The mountains
overlook and press so closely upon this little town of Cluse, that when I
stood in the principal street, each end of it seemed to be perfectly shut
up; and wherever any of the houses had fallen down, the vacancy appeared
to the eye, at a moderate distance, to be plugged up in the same manner
by a green mountain.
On leaving Cluse, however, we found a well-made road running along the
banks of the Arve, and flanked on each side by very high hills, whose
opposite sides tally so exactly, as to lead one to imagine they have
been torn from each other by some violent convulsion of nature.
In other places one side of this defile is a high perpendicular rock, so
very smooth that it seems not to have been torn by nature, but chiselled
by art, from top to bottom, while the whole of the side directly opposite
is of the most smiling verdure.
The passage between the mountains gradually opens as you advance, and the
scene diversifies with a fine luxuriancy of wild landscape.
Before you enter the town of Sallenche, you must cross the Arve, which at
this season is much larger than in winter, being swoln by the dissolving
snows of the Alps.
This river has its source at the Parish of Argentiere, in the valley of
Chamouni, is immediately augmented by torrents from the neighbouring
Glaciers, and pours its chill turbid stream into the Rhone, soon after
that river issues from the lake of Geneva.
The contrast between those two rivers is very striking, the one being
as pure and limpid as the other is foul and muddy. The Rhone seems to
scorn the alliance, and keeps as long as possible unmingled with his
dirty spouse. Two miles below the place of their junction, a difference
and opposition between this ill-sorted couple is still observable;
these, however, gradually abate by long habit, till at last, yielding to
necessity, and to those unrelenting laws which joined them together, they
mix in perfect union, and flow in a common stream to the end of their
course.
We passed the night at Sallenche, and the remaining part of our journey
not admitting of chaises, they were sent back to Geneva, with orders to
the drivers, to go round by the other side of the lake, and meet us at
the village of Martigny, in the Pays de Vallais.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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